Is my car running too cold
Is my car running too cold
I have the 160 thermo and the Meizeire HD water pump. The fan are setup to come on at 176 and 181.
With this setting, the car will run at below 1/8 mark about 170 even with street driving. On a hot day 90 F outside, the car will still be at 170 on the highway, then will go up near the 1/4 mark about 180 with street driving.
What I have notice is that it ran better street driving when it was hotter. The on off throttle is smoother and the cruising is smoother!?
Should I set the fan to come on at a higher temp maybe 180-190.
Anyone else notice something similiar and know why. I always thought colder is better.
TIA
With this setting, the car will run at below 1/8 mark about 170 even with street driving. On a hot day 90 F outside, the car will still be at 170 on the highway, then will go up near the 1/4 mark about 180 with street driving.
What I have notice is that it ran better street driving when it was hotter. The on off throttle is smoother and the cruising is smoother!?
Should I set the fan to come on at a higher temp maybe 180-190.
Anyone else notice something similiar and know why. I always thought colder is better.
TIA
Id rather keep it colder.
I had it even more extreme than you. I had a 160 thermo, yadayada... and the fans hard wired to always be on. Even on the hotest days in S FL i would never get but a smidge above the first mark
I had it even more extreme than you. I had a 160 thermo, yadayada... and the fans hard wired to always be on. Even on the hotest days in S FL i would never get but a smidge above the first mark
DJ:BOTA - it's nice that it is cold, just make me feel safer for the engine.
Ken - I quess you wouldn't recommend making it run hotter
On a very hot day with street driving, it is below the first mark and seem to like it more there. On the other 90% of the time, it is below half of the first mark. Maybe it is smoother because it is slower. I really need to buy Atap, so I can program the VE table.
thanks
--Hugh
Ken - I quess you wouldn't recommend making it run hotter

On a very hot day with street driving, it is below the first mark and seem to like it more there. On the other 90% of the time, it is below half of the first mark. Maybe it is smoother because it is slower. I really need to buy Atap, so I can program the VE table.
thanks
--Hugh
The following may look like a contradiction, but is based on *decades* of reading about internal combustion.
1) Hotter *engines* make more power. The heat of combustion is what makes the thing go. I've read about small experimental engines based on structural ceramics that don't need any cooling system.
2) Colder *air* is denser, meaning that there is more oxygen per unit volume available for combustion. Hot air is why your car feels sluggish on hot days, and cold air is why it flies in the early spring. I'm told colder inlet air helps supress detonation, but it seems unlikely to me that a 40* difference (50 vs 90, say) would have much of an effect on combustion temperatures way over 1000*.
So you want a fully warmed up engine breathing chilled air for max power.
I think the diffenence between halfway to the first tic mark on the gauge and all the way to the first tic mark is too small to make a noticable difference in performance, except for the hot air effect. If your IAT could be held constant, I really doubt the dyno would show much difference between 1/8 of full scale and 1/4 of full scale. It would be interesting to plot IAT vs engine temp.
I wonder if you have a step in some PCM table that happens around 180*. This could cause a noticable performance difference.
1) Hotter *engines* make more power. The heat of combustion is what makes the thing go. I've read about small experimental engines based on structural ceramics that don't need any cooling system.
2) Colder *air* is denser, meaning that there is more oxygen per unit volume available for combustion. Hot air is why your car feels sluggish on hot days, and cold air is why it flies in the early spring. I'm told colder inlet air helps supress detonation, but it seems unlikely to me that a 40* difference (50 vs 90, say) would have much of an effect on combustion temperatures way over 1000*.
So you want a fully warmed up engine breathing chilled air for max power.
I think the diffenence between halfway to the first tic mark on the gauge and all the way to the first tic mark is too small to make a noticable difference in performance, except for the hot air effect. If your IAT could be held constant, I really doubt the dyno would show much difference between 1/8 of full scale and 1/4 of full scale. It would be interesting to plot IAT vs engine temp.
I wonder if you have a step in some PCM table that happens around 180*. This could cause a noticable performance difference.
Originally posted by 10secz
I wonder if you have a step in some PCM table that happens around 180*. This could cause a noticable performance difference.
I wonder if you have a step in some PCM table that happens around 180*. This could cause a noticable performance difference.
thanks
--Hugh
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