motor break in...
motor break in...
first im not 100% sure this is the correct place to post this so if it gets moved... sorry. when i get back home im gonna have a new motor w/a TC76 and it needs to be broke in. the question is should i break it in on light/full boost or no boost? how have yall broke in new engines? cant remember what rings are in the motor im sure that would help. golen break in procedures pretty much say to beat the snot out of the motor for like 500 miles?? wtf? also i have NO tuning for this engine and im sure il need a good dyno tune to make it run right so will a mail order tune get me started and driving enough to break in until i can get it on a dyno? (i did PM the trifecta or w/e guys to see what they said about tuning) just trying to find some of you guys out there that were in this boat before. thanks in advance.
oh yea iv read not to break in a new motor with new coated exhaust anyone heard about that? i want all my hotside to be coated but dont wanna pay the 500 bones just to have it flake off and do it all over again.
oh yea iv read not to break in a new motor with new coated exhaust anyone heard about that? i want all my hotside to be coated but dont wanna pay the 500 bones just to have it flake off and do it all over again.
Last edited by FireChicken1995; Apr 23, 2007 at 10:52 AM.
go for a nice easy ride around the block, come back check for leaks etc. Start her up and let her have it...make sure you watch your wideband to make sure you arent runing lean..take the engine up in the rpms nice and slow and let it slow itself down..do that few times and then let her rip
break it in hard.
here is how i do it:
start it up an check for leaks (bring it to operation temp)
shut it off and change the oil (gets all the assembly lube and other crap out of the motor.
new oil, new filter.
start it up and baby it out to a road where you can get on it.
in 2nd gear floor it (with a good tune of course) and bring the rpms ~3/4 up then let off the gas. leave it in gear and let it engine break back down to ~1800 rpms,
floor it again to 3/4 let it engine break down again.
floor it to ~4/5 let it engine break again.
do this a few times in 2nd a few time in 3 a few times in 4th.
after ~15-20 miles of this, take the car home and check for leaks.
let the car cool down and change the oil again.
new oil, new filter
drive the car around as you normally would.
change the oil at 50miles and 150miles, and 500 miles.
most of the break in (seating the rings) is done when you are out beating on it, the rest will happen as you drive it around.
by flooring it (0 vacuum or possibly boost) , you help seat the top ring, buy letting it engine break you create alot of vacuum which seats the bottom ring
this is how i have done it and i have had success with it.
the biggest thing is to make sure you have a good tune.
to much fuel and you could wash the cylinders out (ie not let the rings "grind" themselves into the hone)
to little fuel and you could have preignition and blow the motor.
good luck
here is how i do it:
start it up an check for leaks (bring it to operation temp)
shut it off and change the oil (gets all the assembly lube and other crap out of the motor.
new oil, new filter.
start it up and baby it out to a road where you can get on it.
in 2nd gear floor it (with a good tune of course) and bring the rpms ~3/4 up then let off the gas. leave it in gear and let it engine break back down to ~1800 rpms,
floor it again to 3/4 let it engine break down again.
floor it to ~4/5 let it engine break again.
do this a few times in 2nd a few time in 3 a few times in 4th.
after ~15-20 miles of this, take the car home and check for leaks.
let the car cool down and change the oil again.
new oil, new filter
drive the car around as you normally would.
change the oil at 50miles and 150miles, and 500 miles.
most of the break in (seating the rings) is done when you are out beating on it, the rest will happen as you drive it around.
by flooring it (0 vacuum or possibly boost) , you help seat the top ring, buy letting it engine break you create alot of vacuum which seats the bottom ring
this is how i have done it and i have had success with it.
the biggest thing is to make sure you have a good tune.
to much fuel and you could wash the cylinders out (ie not let the rings "grind" themselves into the hone)
to little fuel and you could have preignition and blow the motor.
good luck
thinks for the tips guys hopefully i can get a mail order tune that is close enough to keep the A/R ratio good and not have too much timing. my ole man lives out in the country and has a lift and thats where the car is but i plan on putting it all together by ft hood when i get back. as soon as the car is ready for break in il take it to my ole mans so i can use the lift
if you own a F-body its good to have buddys
. wish i knew alot more about tuning that way i could run F.A.S.T. or BS3 then i would feel much better about beating on a $7,000 motor.....
anyone know about the exhaust coating??
if you own a F-body its good to have buddys
. wish i knew alot more about tuning that way i could run F.A.S.T. or BS3 then i would feel much better about beating on a $7,000 motor.....anyone know about the exhaust coating??
any good exhaust coating shouldnt flake off, whether it be during break in or during normal operation.
if you get your exhaust coated be a reputable coater, i doubt you will have a problem.
most coatings are good to 2000*, if you have that high of EGT's there is another problem
if you get your exhaust coated be a reputable coater, i doubt you will have a problem.
most coatings are good to 2000*, if you have that high of EGT's there is another problem
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Victor Lamb
Suspension, Chassis, and Brakes
3
Aug 26, 2017 02:52 PM
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM
armedtrigger
LT1 Based Engine Tech
10
Feb 24, 2015 08:30 PM



