do you know how VRE is setting up the LS1 box and optispark?

i know the LT1 bs3 box will not drive the LS1 coils, but i thought it could be setup to run sequential.
if the delteq/ltcc will handle the power, you can run the optispark (used for cam/crank angle) and run the coil on plug via delteq/ltcc
i havent gotten the exact pricing but it seems like it would be cheaper to that way instead of switching to a complete LS1 ignition.
lt1 big stuff 3 - $2000 + $700 for the delteq or
ls1 big stuff 3 - $2500 + cost to swap to a LS1 ignition (accroding to john at bs3, you need a 24x wheel $100, hall effect sensor $100, a gm cam sensor $250 and truck coils $??)

ill be in peoria at the end of may for business, maybe ill pm you and see if we can meet up so i can check your setup out.

 

ill rev until i stop making power

i plan on trapping 140 ish,

was your optispark stock? msd? miles on said opti?

 

I'm also putting together a BS3 C.O.P. system similar in theroy to 95 Z28 LT1's set-up only we are approching the hurdles a little differently. I would suggest that you to try and decide what system you ultimately want and stay with that system and then deal with whatever obstacles you may encounter along the way. Both the LT1 and LSx BS3 systems are good, so you can't go wrong, but it would be costly to change midstream.

 

exactly what im doing.

no need to spend the extra money on the ls1 cop/bs3 setup if the lt1 bs3/delteq/ltcc will be enough.

im not trying to run 7's but if i get to 10s (streetcar) and want to setup alittle, i dont want to have to switch away from my ~$3000 ecu setup

 

If you want sequential operation with BS3 and the optispark you will still need to run a seperate cam sensor, which would entail modifying your intake manifold for a distributor and running a stub style oil pump drive/cam sensor.

Also, I ran my LT1 as high as 890rwhp and 149mph trap speeds with a stock GM optispark with riveted rotor contacts. The biggest problem that I've encountered with stock optis is the rotor contact flying off as it only has plastic rivets. After 2 years and plenty of runs showing 7,600+ between shifts the aluminum rivets are still holding the rotor contact on.

I've not seen an MSD rotor but if it's held together better than stock I think that would be a good solution as well.

 

You'll probably be shifting around 62 - 6400.

Honestly, for "only" 140 in the quarter, there is NO WAY I would even consider spending the $$$ you're talking about on aftermarket EFI. Myself and at least 2 others have gone 145+ with the stock ECM.

 

i was under the impression that on a 95 pmc you cannot get boost columns via a ecu hack (accroding to this thread: http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518615 )

i dont want to "make it work"
id like for it to run right, hopefully my tuner will chime in as me and him have been discussing this all week
if there is something im missing, im all ears

 

according to john ad bs3 if i was to buy the bs3 (part # BS3-004-002) then i can run sequential on the lt1

cant the sensor inside the opti be used as a crank angle reference?

thanks for everyones help so far,
seems like this thread has brought out the big dogs of lt1s

 

The opti can be used for the crank reference, but not the cam signal.

 

Hey, I will be doing the tuneup on Kelly's lt1 setup. I am trying to research along with him on what would be the best engine management solution for him. We have looked into stock ECU-based solutions, but it appears that with his OBD1 ecu, he can't see over 100kpa in the maps. His currrent setup is also FMU based, which is obviously far from ideal.

If we can't get over 100kpa in the maps, then that presents a real problem. I am aware that you could try to trick the ecu into working with a different map sensor to "fake" boost readings or something like that, but that really defeats the purpose of having a configurable ECU if you have to fool it into doing its thing. I am a huge advocate for precision engine control, and if that is not available with the stock PCM, I personally wouldn't feel comfortable running it on somethng that's more than doubling the stock output. Building a car is about choosing the best set of compromises, and engine management is one of the most important aspects... it can really make or break a setup.


We have the luxury of access to a load bearing dyno where we can steady state tune the entire maps so tget peak torque and safety under any and every possible engine condition, so we'd like to use it

Engineermike, how much boost are you running on the 76mm to get the times you do? ~230kpa?

 

Buy a FAST or BS3. Or if you are really handy a Megasquirt and build it yourself.

 

lol,
have you read any of this thread?
we are trying to figure out if BS3 will work with everything we want to do


thanks for posting jeremy,
i understand most of the tuning stuff, but when we start trying to add parts to get certain signals, that is where i let servion take over

 

Most of us simply add fuel to the PE table at any rpm beyond which the MAF max's out. 140 mph at 3700 lb = 780 hp. The MAF will max out around 600 fwhp, so you have to add about 30% extra fuel to the PE at peak hp.

To run 146 mph, I was running about 17 psi boost, which is around 220 kpa so you're pretty close!

Mike

 

Man, you guys are crazy That would scare me to death. I mean no offense of course! But I would be afraid of just throwing extra fuel at it when the ecu cannot read what's going on completely. What do you do for ignition timing control where its maxxed out? Are you doing this with an OBD1 computer? Is it indeed limited to 100KPa?

I am really pushing Kelly to get something that will allow us to completely control the ign/fuel/etc at every load/rpm combo (i.e. standalone ). I guess

Mike, if you don't mind my asking, what sort of rpm you spool 17psi out of that turbo? And where does your converter stall (I assume its an auto)? I tuned a buddy's 383 mustang with a 98mm turbo and we can't get it to spool up fast enough to come out of the hole (too low of a stall I think) but it trapped 168 last time out at 220KPA

 

we ran into a similar situation on my last car.
on my honda i was running ~32 psi (guage) on am 3 bar map sensor,

somehow i blew a wastegate line and over boosted and the ecu didnt even know it happened. 40 psi and i cracked a sleeve

im just trying to get as safe of a tune as possible,
servion will vouch, i will make pass after pass, the car will be beat on pretty hard
so the safer the better.