I'm getting desperate here.

I get between 12-15* of knock retard during WOT (70%+ TPS) above 3,000 PRM WITH or WITHOUT the blower. I have disabled low octane retard along with burst knock. Last weekend I ran 110 leaded mixed 60/40 with 92 octane in the car (no cats) and still got the same KR. I've gone over every inch of my exhaust and "fixed" anything that could be close enough to hit anything. The plugs and wires are new and the valve covers have never been off the car.

I have many many logs from Datamaster if anyone wants to see them. I have plenty of fuel and plenty of spark.

 

TTT

 

Do you have a lt4 knock modual?....Thats alot of knock your getting, Something is setting it off pretty good. Odviousely, its false knock, most likely your valvestrain is setting it off, if you have lt1 edit you can limit the amount of timing your computer takes out when it hears this faulse knock.

 

I've tried LT1 and LT4 KMs. The LT4 KM showed 3* less but the sampling data wasn't perfect.

I don't want to adjust the KS in Tunercat. When/if my motor does detonate, I want it to pull as much timing as it needs.

Thanks for the reply.

 

What? Nobody likes a challenge?

Do you guys need more info?

 

Not sure about your KR but if you ran leaded fuel you can kiss your O2's goodbye. I tried this last year and after 2 sets of O2's i gave up on leaded race gas and low lead Aviation fuel. If you getting that much retard even with that high an octane fuel, you may have to disable knock retard. Then you will have to trust your tune, so make sure its plenty rich. What do you mean you have plenty of spark? if your running to much advance then you may have found your problem

 

I've run 5 gallons of leaded fuel through my motor twice. Neither time did it affect my O2s. The second time, the fuel was diluted with 92 octane from the pump.

I meant that the car wasn't 'missing' and I have proper fuel delivery.

I replaced the KS yesterday. No change.

 

I may be way off regarding this, but isn't it possible to get detonation from too much fuel? I agree though, something sounds odd and maybe some wideband time would be worth your money to help get it dialed in.
I had a tuning glitch and it ended up being something as simple as my O2 sensor wire (passenger side) burning against the damned header. Once it was fixed, the car died of course. Why? The ignition FUSE had come loose. It didn't blow, there was just no contact. I double checked everything, bought a new ignition module, swapped coils, wires, etc and must have pulled the fuse 2-3 times just to be sure. I towed it to a local dealer and was seriously ticked at their $200.00 bill to reseat the thing. Lesson learned, I double check the dumbest things now. Either way, good luck and I hope my rambling isn't too far off topic.

 

Tech, that's a lot of KR and that must feel like your car hit a wall when it kicks in... if I were you I would first try to reduce spark advance in the midrange and see what happens... Then try putting a desensitizer on the knock sensor because it is obviously fake knock. Other than that I have no clue.

 

I shouldn't have to retard timing (stock tables) and I don't want to desensitize the KS. I want the motor to last.

Thanks for the suggestions.

High RPM and high TPS. What could it be?

 

I was getting the same retard, turns out the connector on the sensor was ruined by the headers. Anyone know where I can get a shorter sensor ? connector?

 

Where was the connector screwed up? The gray piece doesn't seem to be burnt or damaged and the section of wire that I can see looks fine.

 

The connector was off compleatly. It was heat distorted like it had been laying on the primary. My headers are not designed for a ks. They are racing headers. I am looking to run the ks anyway. I was implying that perhaps your ks is not working or that the wire is not delivering a compleate circut.

 

I had a problem with my KR spiking.

I found out that I had a bad connection for my coolant sensor. Previously a stripped blower belt had cut the wires for the sensor and it had been repaired BUT it appears that it also caused the wire to strip elsewhere and become exposed to shorting.

My clue came after I started seeing the coolant temp results from datamaster jumping all over the place.

 

I'll pull the wire out of the harness and check the connection at the PCM. Thanks guys.

Any other suggestions?