Right now I'm at 17 psi and making somewhere between 900 and 1050 fwhp, depending on which calculator you use.

Mike

 

I was concerned about this also, but you have to keep a few things in mind:

- There is still a quench area, about 1/2", all the way around the piston.
- Boosted motors have plenty of turbulence in the cylinder, so quench isn't as important.
- Some OEM turbo motors, namely the SRT-4, have something like .250" quench. So, a non-D-shaped dish couldn't be so bad.
- I'll give up the small advantage of quench for a large advantage in strength.

Mike

 

At what point did you start breaking SRP's?

Ken R.

 

It wasn't so much the power level as much as the fact that they broke with even a hint of detonation. As I said, they were very unforgiving. Let's face it. . . with anything over 10 psi, **** happens from time to time. Any time anything was slightly outta' whack, it gave up an SRP piston. If you look at the thickness between the bottom of the dish and the top ring groove, it's not too hard to understand why.

Mike

 

Yeah they are a custom order from JE.

I'm running 5.7" Eagle H-beams w/ a 3.48 stroke.

 

Very true. Thanks for the info.

Ken R.

 

Time for a little update:
Build will be in two stages. I am working on the kit now and will run a stock shortblock thats laying around. This will give me summer to build my main motor and then crank up the boost. Just finished my degree, am starting a pretty nice position that should fund the new motor

Wastegates are set at 8psi, figure a little drop through the intercoolers and a stock motor should survive a few months while I build the other on the stand.

kit:
2 tbird t3s. .60/.63 theory and reality have shown these can make 650 to the ground, and they were cheap (have)
twin intercoolers (have, pics soon)
megasquirt with edis8 coilpack per cyl (have and am assymbling)
LC-1 wideband (have)
truck headers to clear steering rack etc (have)
probably FMS 150# injectors (need)
ebay bov (need)


motor to be built:
63cc lt1 ported heads (have)
diamond -22cc pistons (need, will be in the mid-high 8.x compression range)
eagel crank, h beams (have, block needs a rework)
smallish turbo cam (need, prob something to peak @ 5800-6000)

 

If you want the pressure drop, be sure the wastegate references right off the compressor housing.

What vehicle has proven to make 650rwhp with these turbos?

Do you mean 50# injectors? You wont max out 60#'s, let alone 150's.

Good combo.

 

Well, mostly 5.0 guys on the numbers. 650 is "possible" but I think I am shooting for the 550-600 range in the long run.

Looking at the 150s based on price. Depends on what comes up for sale used between now and whenever. New FMS 150s ($400 from summit) are cheaper than any 80ish ones I have seen.

 

What size turbos are they (what mm)? Remember, the fords hav smaller cubic inch, so whats fine for them might not be fine for you.

With the 80's nd 150's, you'll need a versafueler (low impedence box) since the stock ECU only runs high Z injectors. Just buy the Motron 60# injectors (compatible with stock ECU and you can get them for $350-375 new) and they will support 650rwhp.

 

My standalone will run low or high z

I will max the turbos out in the long run, but its my first time around and just having fun. Thinking big block in a third gen with a 101mm on it or something next...

 

Thats good that you have a standalone. I must have missed the megasquirt You will easily max those turbos out. Honestly, 83-85# injectors have easily supported 800-900rwhp combos, so I think 150's are still overkill.

 

Lol, ya. Looks like there are quite a few 60 and 83s moving over on corral in my price range.

I still think it will make good power and be a fun little street car. Lag will almost not exist.

 

Yeah, you'll smoke the tires off at 1400rpm!

 

Stump puller.

Hopefully I can work on the hot side some next day or two.