As many of you all know, I lost my 94 Z28 due to a fire. I hope that most of the motor is salvagable, but we'll see. I was told that at least some of it should be. It didn't look like the intake or throttle body or anything was melted. The hood, interior, etc. is gone though and much plastic under the hood.

My hopes are to get around 1,000 STREETABLE horsepower. How does the motor below and a T88 sound?

Anyway ... here is the motor I hope to salvage ...

396 Stroker - 4.03" Bore x 3.875" Stroke


Block/Bottom End
1994 Camaro Z28 LT1 2-Bolt block converted to 4-bolt Splayed Bottom End
ARP Bolts
Callies Caps
Callies Reciprocating Assembly Balanced and Blueprinted
Callies Stealth Forged 4340 Crankshaft
Callies Forged 4340 Connecting Rods
JE Forged 16cc Pistons

Valvetrain/Heads/Cam
Cam Motion 240/240 .560/.560 112 LSA Hydraulic-Roller Camshaft
Crower 1.65:1 Roller Rockers (Intake Valves)
Crower 1.6:1 Roller Rockers (Exhaust Valves)
Comp Cams Dual Valvesprings
Comp Cams Series "R" Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Comp Cams One-Piece Chrome-Moly Pushrods
AFR Hydra-Rev Kit
Locally Ported/Polished LT1 Heads
Manley Stainless Steel 2.00" Intake/1.57" Exhaust Valves with 5-Angle Valve Job
.039" Head Gaskets
Titanium Retainers
Bronze Valve Guides
ARP Head Bolts
Ported LT1 Intake For 58mm TB and Ported Runners

The compression is like 11.8:1, so I know I'd have to swap out the heads and/or pistons to get 8.5:1 or something similar. Does this look possible? Would it be too radical under normal driving conditions etc?

 

Looks like you are on the right track. Get the compression ratio down to 8.5-9 like you said and you should be good to go.

FWIW, at 1000hp, a single will work, but twins will be more responsive and efficient, if you're comparing twin t04's to a T88 with a to4 inlet.

 

You'll get a much wider power band w/ a wide LSA on that cam.

 

Thanks for the input guys. It looks like you both have a healthy setup. How streetable are your rides? Are they uncomfortable on the street or do they do well? Do my internals and block look good enough for what I am wanting to do?

 

.......at the expense of high rpm power

 

I agree with 8, but I'm just not talented enough to build a TT setup. The T88 will be fine, but the his points are definitely valid.

Motor should be fine, just gotta get some large CC heads to get the CR down. i've seen LT1 heads with large chambers, but you may be better off starting with aftermarket castings.

BTW: i haven't been around much as I've got other project taking up nearly all my time. With that said, is that Kraest's old car? he had the only 395 SOM Vert to my knowledge... sad, sad day if it was his. That was a gorgeous car.

 

Jesse, yes that was his old car. Do a search on general forum for my last post and you will get the scoop on what happened. I think when it did happen, I could actually hear my heart breaking. Oh well - if it is salvagable, Part II will be a sight to behold!

 

My car is a 100% street car. That has always been the goal. Stock interior, A/C, small cam, 6-speed. Cruises dead smooth at 1300 rpm's in 6th, very comfortable to drive.

I think your internals and block are more than strong enough.

Jesse made a good point about the heads. At that power level, I think an aftermarket casting is well worth the money.

 

having had both 112 and 115, the power band of the 115 would be more suited for a "streetable" setup. And FWIW, i've got the 115 LSA cam in there now and don't suffer from any higher RPM power loss

just from my own experience, the 112 LSA was peaky.

 

Unbelieveable - you guys are getting me quite excited now about getting this stuff rolling So how does the car feel when driving normally compared to say a stock F body, or say a cam/exhaust car? Is it worthy of taking a baby seat around in?

 

Yes, but from what I recall, you have a 250+ duration @.050 cam which would have alot of overlap with a 112 or 115 lsa. (not sure on your cam specs, but that's what I seem to remember)

I've had 4 cams in my car now. (reverse split, standard split, and 2 single pattern) and various LSA's.

I'm talking cams between 214 @.050 to 226 @ .050 , but taking the dyno sheets from the cams with least to most overlap, the higher overlap cams would make alot more power above 6k, with a tradeoff to drivability and response. (I've ran between -16 overlap @.050 to zero overlap @.050).

I can definitely see if you got into the 20-30 degrees overlap @.050 range, there would be a point of diminishing returns.

 

251/248 actually

But he listed a 240/240 112 as the proposed cam, i personally would rather have something wider given those durations.

 

I'm not sure you can hog out the factory heads or get a deep enuff piston to get an 8.x:1 compression. You may have to run an AFR or Trick Flow head.

 

yea, you need to change pistons or go to an AFR head (which i reccomend anyway)

 

Im not sure if you can get pistons made for those stock castings to give you a low enough compression. My setup consists of 76cc heads with -21cc dish in the piston and a .39 head gasket. That nets about 8.5:1
Your a long way with those 58cc heads.

I drive my car pretty much every day, except when the weather is nice enough to ride the bike. Gas prices are getting a bit stiff when your cruising around town at 14mpg. My car drives better then stock but is a little bit louder. From just hearing the car, most people expect the car has a mild cam with exhaust.