Heh, I love it...


"2 bolts will never hold over 550rwhp"
"stock crank might hold 550rwhp"
"stock rods are good for maybe 450rwhp"
"you cant spin a single chain past 6,000rpms"
"you cant this, you cant that, this wont work, that wont work"...gotta love how people come up with all of this stuff..

 

With a turbo, you can shove a lot of good air in that 355. Are tens possible, hell yes. Just make sure you get a big enough turbo so you can turn up the boost if you have to, like 15 psi. Why limit yourself to 10?

If I went out right now and raced my car w/slicks, I would be more worried about the M6 breaking than the motor. I have a stock crank, but forged h-beam rods and forged pistons.

The crank is the strongest part of the whole rotating assembly. They run cast cranks in big blocks all day long to 800 HP. I did grind down and polish the snout after a rebuilt in 1999 after 3 pistons let go. It was damaged due to no hub key and running a procharger for a few years. The crank snout probably would have come off by now if it wasn't detected. These days cranks are getting real cheap, so getting a forged one is good insurance.

The most stressed part are the rods, hands down. I have been gunning my motor now for 10 years with the stock crank and 2 bolt mains (arp bolts, not studs) and it hasn't broke yet, nothing in the bottom end has let go. Sorry I can't say that for the top end. I have to say overall the LT1 is one hell of motor. And the LS1, perhaps better. I have an LQ9 motor in my truck, it is powerful and smooth as silk.

 

Check out my new post comparing M6 verus auto and how there can easily be up to 1 full second difference in the 1/4 mile between the two. Its very difficult to run an M6 fast without an awsome suspension and tire setup.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...41#post4158441

 

Hes got a 2 bolt main and a stock crank..everyone says they flex or the caps will break..studded or not...

 

I know my shortblock has been run on a dyno in the 900hp range with 2-bolt main studs. The bearings look fine to me so i'm not thinking there was any crank walk.

Of course it is just word of mouth that it was run that high on a dyno, but then again I trusted the guy enough to buy his shortblock without ever laying eyes on it

Jeremy

 

Gotta love the truth. Theres another one. "youll never get over 500rw on 2 bolts.."

 

Well that is most likely said about your average 2 bolt mains. Main studs definately help the situtation. And i'm not saying I will ever turn the boost up in search of 900hp, but it's nice to know I could (for a little while anyway)

 

Yes, I know. A 2-bolt main can be strong too, just how strong, ask those who have had failures.
A four bolt is supposed to be stronger, but it costs around $500 for the conversion to a 4 bolt main since the block has to be align honed. If you can find a corvette LT1 4-bolt block, that would be nice.

From my experience with the stock crank and 2 bolt main setup in my LT1 and from what I have read on this board for almost 10 years now and input from local engine builders, a 2-bolt studded main is sufficient for most street and strip cars. Now if your pushing over like 650 horse in a small block and 800+ in a big block, or are 75% strip, that's a different story.

A broken crank is very rare. Most failures are at the snout due to the sideloading from a supercharger or because the caps moved a hair, taking out the bearing. With a turbo, you don't have any sideloading on the crank, one of the advantages of a turbo! Now I have heard of several rod failures of the stock rods, that's why I did not reuse the stockers.

 

I think if he is keeping the RPMS down the studded 2 bolt should be fine..what do you guys think about a studded 2 bolt on that same setup...only spinning to 6,000-6,200 max?

 

I have an lt1 making some big power and it is a 2 bolt but it has splayed billet caps and it is stronger then a 4 bolt buy far I took it to the track last week and ran a 9.60 sliding all over and letting out because the track was like 47 degrees and wouldent hook up when the boost hit in full so i dident use the trans break and still did a 1.40 60 foot at 149mph letting in and out of the gas so im expecting to hit the 8s next year

 

yeah but its a 4bolt splayed now..so that doesnt count. nice runs though..what do you have done to your car?Specs?

 

well the list would be about 2 or 3 pages but ill try ok it is a 396 with trickflow heads worked to death the cam is 315 dur and 692 lift and it has psi springs witch are really good its got the lt4 intake ported to death as well the shop that did the intake had to put apoxy on it thats how much they took out of it to match the heads the heads flow 322 at 800 lift on the intake ,its got 96 lb injectors and the engin is ran off of a fast xfi system witch i love ,it also has a f1 procharger on it and im pushing about 25psi right now ,the car has a bmr k-member with adjustable upper and lower control arms with qa1 springs and shocks fully adjustable it got a 5200 stall with a 400 trans with a brake never used that yet and it has a 9inch rear end with 410 gears 28x10.5x15 mt slicks bmr adj panhard and control arms with a bmr antiroll system and strange 12 way shocks and the bmr trackpac torque arm im probly missing alot but you get the hint the car is hooked the fuxk up !

 

Unless you're building a big block Chevy the front caps are going to be 2bolt. Snout failure is due to torsional stress placed on the end of a cast crank. The snout being the drive and the smallest diameter.

4 bolt mains help keep the caps from being draw in from the ineveitable detonation occasionally experienced with a high output forced induction engine. Regardless, loose main caps are common on a FI engine that has been run hard. The best solution is a splayed cap conversion from a 2 bolt block done by a machinist that appreciates the need for tight fitting caps. This should be done to a block that hasn't been pushed to the limit in a past life.

Broken main caps are extremely rare in any engine and would likely be the result of another mechanical failure.

 

Yeah, I guy the other day told me 2 bolt mains wont last more than a day. He put a P600B on his 94LT1..drove it down the street and a cap broke in half.

 

before i built my car i put a p1sc procharger on the stock engin and it never broke and i run the hell out of it