This was at 14-15psi boost before the head gaskets let go. I also have stock head bolts. Hopefully I can get some good gaskets and head studs on before SLP day.

 

Tell us more about your setup. I checked out your website, but it doesn't detail your car much. Whatya' got?

BTW, sorry about the head gaskets. My friend has that same problem on his 91 C4 and N20.

Mike

 

Patton is it?

Nice numbers, did it blow a head gasket, or did it lift?

I pulled my heads and the Fel Pro 1074's looked great, I had some evidence of lifting the heads, but the gaskets were undamaged. I had full intentions of machining receiver grooves in the heads and running Wire Lock gaskets, but now I don't know. I was running ARP bolts, but I'm switching to ARP studs. I have run as high as 25# boost though...

What are you going to do for gaskets?

Copper gaskets are out. period. I'd have to pull the motor to re-torque.

 

It's a 383 LT1 with the old LPE heads. Turbo is an Innovative T76 with their racegate and the rest is a bolt on turbotechnology kit. Old school dfi with a VIC and 96# injectors. The car also has a powerglide with a 10" A-1 converter (rated stall is 2800).

Brady, don't know yet. It's freakin cold here right now and my buddy's shop is full until Tuesday. We'll rip it apart then. Since they are stock reused head bolts I wouldn't doubt that is the problem (lifted). The motor has been together for over 3 years now and had up to a 200 shot on it for most of that time

I am definitely going to copper head gaskets and ARP studs. I like to only do things once. I always looked at the stock head gaskets as a fuse, they are going to break first. I am kind of scared of using copper because now it's either going to melt plugs or pistons but thats the price you have to pay to go as fast as I want to.

 

brady-

Best bet would be wireloc and studs.. however, that will mean machining the block to acept them. The copper setup will leak coolant for street apps(not always, but its a bitch to get right) and like brady said.. retorquing head bolts/studs sux

 

wow!......i think thats the highest hp/tq ive seen on a turbo tech kit.............are you still using their original piping/headers?

translate that for me?

 

Older version of the Accell DFI (not Gen VII) stand alone fuel/timing computer with a VIC, or variable injector controller.

Mike

 

Yes, even the cheesy 3" downpipe. I also used the stock passenger side manifold, cast iron and all. I just hacked the shielding off of it (makes plug changes ALOT easier) and welded up the EGR port. Dfi is version 6.32 and I am using the variable injector controller (VIC) as a stand alone injector driver since I have the 96 pounders that are low impedance.

 

well im pretty sure you are the highest hp/tq numbers on the turbotech kit.

what 1/4 times are you achieving?

 

No idea, the car ran 10.5s with nitrous and alot less power. I want to run in the 9.3-9.5 range with the single turbo and the kit like it is.

 

Hmm that dyno curve looks very wavy. Would like to see what you A/F ratio looks like. Also is that with the stock TTI IC?

Jose

 

I'm using the intercooler that comes in their kit. The more I think about the dyno I'm thinking the tires were spinning. The mph graph only went to 104, my car topped out on the rev limiter at 122 last time out. I should be at 104 at 5200 rpm, about where the hp started falling off.

 

Wow, very interesting #'s then. I would like to see what the #'s would look like on a 6spd. I'm sure the powerglide is sucking a few ponies extra, plus was that dyno with the convertor locked or is that even possible with a powerglide?? Anyhow great #'s

Jose

 

You can get one to lockup if you buy one of those high dollar API transmissions. Mine is not a lockup

 

I would have to say, your probably losing 40-50rwhp then without locking it up on the dyno. I know my buddies Supra with the convertor locked makes 408rwhp, unlocked it makes 360rwhp. Would be interesting to see the difference.

Jose