Leaking issues with ARP studs? That doesnt seem right. A stud applies consistent pressure unlike a bolt. I have had studs in my engine 2 years with no head gasket issues N/A and ALOT of WOT passes.

Jay

 

My compstar rods came with arp 2000 rod bolts from compstar.

 

i know ive done a good bit of searchin on studs vs bolts and it comes back with a good bit of issues of guys having leaking issues with the studs then anything, maybe cause there not using the right sealent or whatever but... ? and i wasnt even aware the rods came with ARP bolts, works for me!

 

Ive heard the same about studs leaking also but it could very well be the sealant being used. I am starting my FI 383 build now and chose to go with the bolts not only do to the leaking issues but the ease of maintanance. I don't have alot of room under the hood to work. I also went with the ARP 2000 rod bolts. It is my understanding that they are a way better bolt.

 

It's simple. If you've got everything apart, you are in a prime position to do things right (meaning safe for your engine and setup). Go with the ARP rod bolts, and definatly good call on lowering the CR. For 7-10#'s of boost 9-9.5:1 CR would be ideal. I am running around 15#'s of boost with my 8.8:1 CR, and honestly I feel totally safe if I wanted to boost my car up to 20+#'s of boost.

Definately read up, and keep asking guys on here that have the experience. You want to keep the rebuilds to a minimum. Thats why you do it right the first time and you don't have to worry about your car going boom any time soom under boost.