What I'm trying to figure out is how much boost is lost through an aftercooler.

 

Very little boost is "lost" through a good intercooler. A Vortech aftercooler will "lose" less than .5 psi through it. Now, the guage readings will decrease by up to 1 psi because the intercooler condenses the air, so pressure readings decrease both downstream AND upstream of the intercooler.

 

10 psi without cooling is going to take out your head gaskets (been there, done that). My intake temperatures got as high as 212 degrees on my 3rd trip down the 1/4 mile. With the Vortech aftercooler, now I only see a 10 degree rise in intake temps from start to finish down the track.

 

I don't agree with this statement. First of all I drove my car for a year with the setup in the sig and never had a problem. Second you can tune the car without some kind of intercooler, you just leave some ponies behind. Lastly, the reason I'm making this post is b/c I'm going to be installing some kind of cooler system on the car this time around. I'm leaning to an alky setup simply b/c of price. $1800 for the aftercooler is rediculous for what you get IMO.

Thank you for the replies,

 

Check turbobuick.com. Razor, owner of alkycontrol.com, has done alot of testing on a non-intercooled Buick with Methanol injection.

 

Cool, thanks. Bryan Herter also reccommended one made by sno performance. Anyone heard of it. The largest downfall to most alky injection kits I've seen is the huge controller they have.

 

The alkycontrol kit is specifically made for the F-body and has instructions just for that. No home-fabbing, wiring, etc. . . everything's included. His controller is a box about the size of a cigarette pack, but the kit is adjustable for turn-on boost level, turn-on amount, and ramp-rate. It's a progressive kit and it's compatible with 100% Methanol when some of the others don't have the alloy components to stand up to it.

 

I agree that an aftercooler is not the only way to go, but it's always there working to keep your intake temps down. I have a Scanmaster and monitor my intake temps on a regular basis. Since adding the aftercooler, I average 30 - 50 degrees cooler temps with around town driving. Yes you can pull timing to compensate for the difference, but the whole reason I pulleyed up to 10 psi was to make more HP and sooner in the rpm band.

 

Oh, I understand what your saying. I also agree with you. My whole reasoning for making this post is I've seen other guys setups with fully ported LT1 heads and blower cam that run 12-14 psi with an s-trim through an aftercooler. I was curious how much boost droppage there is so I could make an educated guess at how many pounds of boost I'll make since I'm not going to run the aftercooler.