Lately(during the hot days), I've had problems with my car. Highway driving is ok, as long as I don't stop. If I'm in stop and go traffic, it won't take long for the car to shut down. Give it 10 minutes or more, depending on how hot ambient is, and it will crank up til it gets hot again.

I don't remember how hot the unit got for the first few years I had it so I can't make a comparison. However, it's too hot to touch. Which in turn, causes the bracket to become too hot, which then causes the ignition to become hot-which is where I think the problem is.

And this is with no boost. I can keep it out of boost and normally drive it and it's still way too hot to touch.

I've checked to see if the oil sprayer is good - it is. It isn't making any different noises than usual, other than during blow-off. I figured that was because of the bypass valve though.

Any ideas?

 

How hot is your engine running? The brackets are bolted to the block, which gets too hot to touch anyways. Any scans of the car running and quitting? Any codes? Even just the radiator fans blowing on the S/C will make it too hot to touch so I would imagine your problem lies elsewhere.

 

Got a 160 thermo in there and it runs around 170 like usual. Surrounding metal isn't as hot as the unit. The piping isn't hot and it's right in front of the radiator.

I haven't had any codes and I haven't done any scanning so I can't say for sure what that would tell me.

 

The blower will get plenty hot which is normal - or at least on mine it was. Is it a Vortech? If so then there is engine oil at ~220F used to lubricate the bearings/gearset.

There is also heat created by friction in the bearing/gearset even if not in boost. An S-trim at 2,000rpm cruise is still almost 15,000 impeller rpm.

Heat transfer from the engine is valid as was mentioned. I had Hooker headers on mine and the #1 primary was just a few inches from the volute which was causing some heat soak. You can try fabbing a sheet metal heat shield to help that.

When in boost, discharge temp can be over 250F as well.

What changed here? If the BPV is stuck shut you will build more heat yet in the compressor. The BPV should be moving a lot of air at idle so it's easy to check that it's open under no-load conditions by holding your hand over it.

-Scott.

 

You're not supposed to feel the blower after its been running on a hot day and expect for it to be icy cold.

It's supposed to be hot. Too hot to touch, and or anything surrounding it. Unless its glowing in the dark red, I wouldn't worry about the blower.

Your IAT's and your engine temp would be the bigger concern, and if you can manage to keep the engine cool at 170, you are doing great. I would often see 190 on the highway in my car on a hot 85-90 degree day.

 

If you think it's a concern you could hit it with an infrared temp gun to see just how hot it's getting. It shouldn't be any hotter than the cylinder head though.

If you're using an ignition box I"d check there first though.

 

It's a p600b. So still lubed by engine oil. Makes sense why it would be at least close to that hot. I'll try to get a read on it if I find a temp reader.

I don't know what changed actually. Here's a post I made. Didn't find the cause.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=614930

It's the first thing I checked when it started the different noise. Didn't notice anything out of the normal.


My car stays very cool thankfully. Never had problems in boost and stock radiator. I haven't checked IATs lately though.

Not using an aftermarket ignition. Maybe I'll try to move the ignition module and coil off the supercharger bracket and see if that helps.

Thanks for the help.