I would use regular exhaust pipe. Copper-that is a new one on me It would be too heavy. Plus soldered joints might not stand up to the vibration. Also, can you say expensive?

Only tips from me are take your time and it will turn out alright. I learned how to weld doing my setup and have had many compliments on it so far.

 

I purchased a millermatic 130 Mig. Great tool. Also converted a wood miter saw to cut 2 1/2 to 4 inch tube with a sawzall. Worked good with som clamps. I plumbed all my intake and air delivery to the motor in hardpipe purchased from Summit. Purchased mandrel bends from Summit as well. Easy stuff to weld. You will also need a 4 1/2 inch grinder.
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97 camaro 383 ATI D1 15 psi with Spearco intercooler.

 

How much was that mig welder? How do the welds come out??

 

Copper tubing too heavy?
That's just silly.

Soldered joints wont be a problem either. I used copper tubing on an old Harley, so if it'll stand up to THAT vibration, it'll stand up to this. Especially since it'll have rubber connectors in at least two places, which will act as vibration dampers.

Hammered copper can be britle. Copper tube is really pretty strong.

 

Why would that be silly? I am looking to lose weight where I can and if it can be done by using a different type of metal for 10 feet of piping, then I will do it. Although price does come into play at some point so I did not consider aluminum piping. But I would never do copper.

 

Because you'd do better cutting out the extra deserts than worrying about the weight difference between aluminum and copper.

Copper weighs 3 times what aluminum weighs.

However, when you get to the ACTUAL weight difference, how much are you going to save?

20lbs?

OK, granted that you might be ultra concerned about every last ounce, which is a perfectly valid viewpoint.

But considering the power gain from the turbo or supercharging, an extra 20lbs is; for all practical purposes, meaningless.

 

I had a shop in Denver Co. plumb my turbos, but I wish I would have done it myself because it has taken so long and I miss my car

 

Well, I look at it at an overall standpoint. If I don't care what I use on my entire car, there is no telling how much weight I will have added. However, if I take measures to use light materials on everything I do, in the end it could be worth a couple hundred pounds. While that still may not be much to you, it is a LOT to me. In ways other than accelleration such as handling, braking, wear on parts. I still don't understand why you would use copper since you don't have to. Please tell me the benefits over mild steel.

Btw, I personally need all the weight I can get being 6'2"@185lbs

 

CPVC has a temperature limit of 180-200*F.

 

hmmm, well if you can find copper pipe at .060" wall thickness which is about what exhaust pipe is, then 12 feet of 3" copper pipe would weigh in at 25.86lbs vs 22.56 for steel.
Not a big deal IMO. Not sure on copper pipes cost, but I would imagine quite a bit higher than steel exhaust pipe?
Hmm, yeah I suppose CPVC pipe could work up on an intercooler exit or entry up to about 200'F. Should be light but it will be bulkier and you may get some snickers from folks when they see your Home Depot built intercooler piping. It just might work though. But that stuff is pretty expensive also.


Steve

 

It's strictly an aesthetic thing. Polished copper is pretty.

Truthfully, what I'd REALLY like to do is use some of that clear tubing that they make labratory beakers out of. I forgot what it's called, but it's clear like glass and much stronger.

 

That would be Pyrex.. and it will still crack.

Polished copper would look pretty trick..

 

A millermatic 130 welder out the door is approx $700 - includes everything with gas. Some brands are less. The use of 0.023 wire allows you to weld very light gage metal (down to 28ga. - similar to sheet metal.) Most aluminized exhaust tube is cheap and available. Also, making transitions (4 to 3.5/ 3 to 2.5) is very easy with use of a grinder and bending the steel tube, and rewelding. My hard pipe setup is much more efficient and fits better than the rubber. If you have a tight radius bend, turning vanes can be welded inside. This was the case with the ATI D1 discharge due to small clearance.

 

I agree, polished copper looks good. But that would have to be a pain. That is why I like paint

 

Nyalic