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So now that you're done laughing at my paint skills let me explain it.

I have a tube from my pass valve cover to the tee and from an extra drain on the front of my pan (old twin setup) to the tee.

From the tee it goes into a simple air water seperator for an air compressor and then into open air.

This setup works, just too well. 20 minutes of driving will fill up the 2-3 oz container on the bottom of the seperator. So I'm sure that would be a quart in just a couple of days driving to work.

Oil level is below the drain in the pan - I have a canton and run about 6 qts total with a massive oil filter.

I used to run this setup without the oil pan and it did not fill up nearly as quick, but I am pushing the oil pan gasket out and leaking oil down there.

My ring gap is huge - No I don't know how big but I do have blowby. Not so bad that the motor is unhealthy, but its probably the problem.

I am thinking taping the little catch can on the bottom of the seperator and feeding it back into the drain on the oil pan but use a check valve to keep it from blowing air back in that way - so it would keep working the way it is, but would be allowed to drain the oil back into the pan.

Basically I need to get pressure out, but I'm moving so much through it I'm blowing a lot of oil out too.

When the catch fills up it just blows right out the other side of it - messy. I did have the other side attached to the suck side of my turbo, but that resulted in lots of smoke the first time it filled up on me.

 

I would cap the line going to the oil pan. Assuming you are running the stock pcv (vacuum source) on the drivers side it should work fine.

 

Still have the one on the drivers side..... but I'm pushing the seals out if I close off the one on the pan.

 

I have the line from under the TB ran to a air/water seperator then hooked into the PCV in the intake. Seems to work good. But this was N/A I am in the process of my turbo build and will see how it works.
Also I just have a breather on the valve cover, and I am thinking about drilling my drivers side valve cover to add another.

Jay

 

I was kinda annoyed with my oil smelling like gas after a few drives on a fresh oil change. When I put the turbo setup in I ended up welding a one-way exhaust/emmisions valve to the down pipe, after the WB port, and hooked this to the pass. valve cover with about 4' of 3/4" heater hose. Seems to work pretty good because you create flow out of the case. You'll want to eliminate your breather if you do this.

A breather is just something open to the atm will not evacuate the crank case.

You can buy these kits from your favorite speed shop or just make something like I did.

-Scott.

 

This sounds like a winner to me. I could tap both covers with actual fittings so the rubber gromet doesn't leak and then just block off my hole on the front of the pan. Perhaps that woudl give me enough evac and still not just drain oil out of the system.

 

i plan on using an e ac system like what boostedlt1 was talkin about. it seems like it wouldnt really lose oil oil coming from so high. tat makes me wonder why i coudnt just put a barbed fitting in the bottom of the rear of the intake

 

i'm pretty sure a turbo car is going to have relatively high positive pressure in the downpipe. It doesn't make sense to me that running the emmisions valve is going to work very well at creating the needed vacum to relieve the crankcase of combustion byproducts.

 

i wont have any restrictions in my exhaust. it wil be all straight as possible empty pipe after the turbo. just another benefit of having a state inspectors licence. i can write my own inspection stickers

 

Yes. An exhaust evac will be less effective on a turbo car when compared to NA all else remaining equal. The turbo-back section will have less velocity and more pressure than NA - maybe 5-8psig at WOT with a straight-thru muffler or open DP (estimated).

It certainly pulls vacuum at idle, but you get less pull as rpm/pressure increase - same as when using an exhaust evac normally aspirated. It's important to angle the valve toward the downstream to help create low pressure over the port and make it hard for the exhaust to reverse direction.

I'm thinking about measuring the pressure on the valve-cover end of the setup to see what is really happening at higher rpm. I have a feeling the valve will start to close at some point - but at least it wont be pressurizing the crankcase - it will just lose effectiveness.

The real solution may be a vacuum pump. I just read today on an electric setup that could come on via a hobbs switch. That could take over as the exhaust system starts to lose effectiveness so that you are evac'ing at all times.

-Scott.

 

Well I am just using a cheapo air water separator. I opened the drain **** on the bottom of it and ran a tiny piece of tubing with a check valve in it back to the large line coming from the front of the pan.

Not an ideal solution by any means but I don't seem to be pushing nearly as much oil from the seals (think the pan gasket still needs to be replaced) and now my catch doesn't fill up. I'm sure theres some contamination going on, but no more than normal.