Check this out..

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=94281

Thanks,

--Sean

 

Ouch, very ouch, baby.

Did your hub still fit pretty tightly on when you pressed it back on the last time?

If it keeps breaking and spinning, that press fit is getting more and more loose everytime you put it back on.

A new crank and a new hub may be your only solution. It'd be hell to get that bolt out anyway.

 

Are you double keying it? if not.. do so

 

Will double keying it solve the problem or is it going to break the double keys??

Yea, the hub fit on real tight every time I put it on.. I am second guessing this time though.. I really think the hub is wiped and the crank might be too..

--Sean

 

Sorry to hear that Sean. Stories like this scare the c**p out of me because I have run out of money to fix theses types of problems.

 

well, its hard to say..but I have built cars with 12-15lbs of boost with out a problem with single keys and billet hubs. I have seen cars with big power(20lbs) with double keys and no problems. make sure you are using good tool steel keys.

 

Any suggestions on where to get good keys??? The last few ones I Got were from pep boys.. I broke the 2 that came with the hub from racenet..

--Sean

 

I am putting A 355 lt1 together. I have A scat forged crank single grooved stock lt1 hub. I am shoting for 15# boost maybe more is this going to be problem.

 

Ouch. See if you can get a hold of an IRS billet keyed hub. I know IRS doesn't make them any more, but they float around in the FS section every now and then. I just sold mine to Jordan Musser's rooomie not too long ago. Being billet, they're not going to crack, and they also have tighter tolerances on the crank. I know mine was a COMPLETE biotch to get off the crank, but that was a good thing too.

IRS billet hub.
Steel woodruff key
Stage 8 crank bolt

That should do it! Hope your crank is ok!!! Have fun getting out the other half of that bolt.

 

Thanks, but, I already had an IRS (racenet) Billet Hub.. And a steel woodruff key, and a stage 8 crank bolt.. Roasted all 3.. The hub was nice a tight when it went on .. Lined up the key, put it on with the balancer tool, cranked it down, then put int he crank bolt..

The bolt is now purple on the end.. I can't imagine the stress it was under.. Tell you what though, that says something for the strength of the crank.. My last crank (the stock one) blew up when this happened.. Snapped the snout right off it.. This one is an eagle forged..

--Sean

 

That's pretty outrageous that such a stout hub setup is getting trashed by your D1 setup. Maybe it is a symptom of a greater problem? Does your D1 impeller spin freely? Any bearing noise? Are you running cogs? If not, how many ribs on your belt?

Maybe double-keying is necessary in this case... it just seems so unusual to me for your "modest" setup. By that, I mean you're not running a Vortech XX-trim with cogs on a 1000hp motor.

 

Yea, I agree, this is ridiculous.. I think the tensioning setup that cmoes with the ATI F-Body kit is a joke.. It does a crappy job at best..

I checked the blower, it all spins fine.. It already has imploded on me once and was rebuilt at a nice price of $1300 ..

One thing after another, after another.. I am spinning the blower hard, but not crazy.. Cogs it is, with an ati superdamper and possibly a new crank.. Gonna have to wait till after the summer though.. Getting married in August and weddings are expensive

 

Try MSC industrial machining parts they will have tool steel woodruff keys.

Steven

 

by double keying, you mean adding a second row of crank key ways and machining the balancer to fit with two sets of keys? two keys fit on each side then for a total of 4 keys on the crank snout?

hmm.. got me thinking. i have a 383 forged eagle crank and D1 looking to spin it at near its max with 12 rib belt set up. procharger thinks it will make 17 pounds through their sheet metal 3 core intercooler. do alot double key the snout with all the extra boost?

thanks,

mike

 

Most cranks and hubs come with a single way.. Making it double keyed means to add a 2nd keyway on the opposite side of the crank and the opposite of the hub.. Making a total of 2 .. I have seen 3 keyways in a crank, but, I'm not sure about losing strength on the snout with it like that..

BTW: I am in the same boat as you.. spinning the D1 hard enough, 7.6 crank pulley, 3.25 charger pulley .. Next step down is a 3.10 and then a 2.95 .. I am running the 12 rib too..

--Sean