Okay i really hate asking this question. But maybe you guys can help me. My 97 Z28 has 106k mi on it. Stock engine, full bolt-ons. A lot of seals are bad and im just thinking its time to do a rebuild. I go to iraq here in may for 1 year. I wanna get a blower for this car as soon as i get back. Vortech or a ProCharger. Now i want an engine that will last a very long time and keep its daily driveability. I want to get close to 500 HP out of it and i would like to get an N2O system incase i ever run into trouble at the track. Yes i did a search already and didnt quite get exactly what i wanted. I saw a lot of talk about 355's 383's. I heard strokers dont last long blown. Now im not saying this its just something ive heard. Like i said im real lost here. Someone help please?

 

4-bolt main conversion, Eagle 4340 crank, Eagle H-beams with L19 or 2000 bolt upgrade, and Ross pistons and only detonation will break it.

 

Regarding pistons, would you pick 4032 or 2618 material? I would think 4032 because of the better wear characteristics due to higher silicon content (less expansion and less piston to wall clearance)... 2618 is stronger and can take more abuse, but longevity would be somewhat reduced.

Also, which is better - D shaped or full dish? I would guess D-shape to help with quench, but I really don't have that much experience/knowledge... I guess the heads would have to have the right combustion chamber shape to match the dish for getting good quench?

Mike, what material and shape are the ross dishes?

 

My SRP's that I broke about 11 of last year on 4 different occasions had a D shaped dish. I thought that was good since they match the quench of the head. However, the custom Ross pistons have a the concentric center of the piston depressed. I guess it's an O shaped dish.

The O shaped dish has a huge advantage when it comes to strength. Since the dish covers a larger area of the piston top, it doesn't have to be as deep or as near to the edge of the piston. This gives you alot more thickness between the bottom of the top ring groove and the bottom of the dish, which is where my SRP's failed every time.

And as far as quench is concerned, the turbo GN 3.8's all had O dished pistons stock, and the Neon SRT4 has something like .250" quench height. I tend to believe that turbo motors aren't as sensitive to quench as N/A.

 

Good news and bad news.

The bad news is the used 355 that I'm gonna run at first has the D-shaped SRPs...

The good news is that the 383 I'm planning on running down the road has a set of Lunati custom pistons: -30cc, 2618 material, full / O-shaped dish (bought 2nd hand, new for $450)


Keeping tally... It looks like the plan so far is:

4340 Eagle crank
4340 Eagle H-beams w/ L19 or 2000 bolts
Ross Pistons (O-shaped dish, 4032 or 2618 material??)

let's keep this going... wrist pins? bigger dish or bigger head chamber -- does it matter? coatings -- bearings, pistons, chambers, valves, exhaust ports?

 

those SRPs in the 355 will probably be ok at moderate boost levels..espcially assuming your running a 5.7 rod and not 6.0.. wouldnt worry about them.. just keep them in mind wile tuning it.. those lunati pistons sound interesting.. is that motor a long rod motor or 5.7 rods.. im in the middle of a piston search for my engine.. it had custom -26cc SRP.. 3 of them broke under some fairly extreme circumstances in about 200mi of use.. the engine builder built it with 6.0 rods which creates a when going with a low CR set up (wasnt my choice i bought the engine with the damaged pistons and am now correcting it).. not many off the self pistions with a 26cc or greater dish to go with a long stroke long rod engine... i found some diamonds that have a -31cc for that set up but id like too explore all options

 

way to hijack my thread Roadie

 

yea no **** future just buy roadies motor LOL

 

You want low silicon alloy for boosted situations. D-dish v. "O"? Both work.

Rich

 

It wasn't an attempt to hijack... Like I said, let's get a list of "the right stuff" (whether that be parts, design (shapes, rod length), clearances, coatings, etc) for a high output and long-life engine, just what your thread is asking for...

 

I'll be running -31cc SRP pistons in my forged 383ci with a T88 setup... we'll see if it will hold 800+rwhp

 

Well now i feel like a douche.. I didnt see that post.

 

No worries man.

 

is this already built? keep us updated on how well it stays togather

 

Both work, but the O is definitely stronger. If you don't detonate, either won't be a problem.