dip stick blow out
#1
dip stick blow out
just put the finishing touches on my sc set up took my car for a spin and noticed smoke pouring out from under the car.the car drove fine poped the hood and my dip stick was pushed out the tube oil was all on the right side engine valve cover and down the my y pipe
so i checked for leaks could'nt find any pushed my dip stick in went for a ride
more smoke poped the hood dip stick pushed out agian
is this normal?
how do i stop this?
so i checked for leaks could'nt find any pushed my dip stick in went for a ride
more smoke poped the hood dip stick pushed out agian
is this normal?
how do i stop this?
#2
Re: dip stick blow out
You need to disconnect the hose that runs from the throttlebody to the valve cover. Also, a valve cover breather will help alot.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...cover+breather
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...cover+breather
#3
Re: dip stick blow out
usually you plug the TB connection and you go with the valvecover hose to the inlet of the blower (after the MAF), better with a little catckcan in between.
Between intake manifold and PCV valve you also should install a checkvalve (better with a very low crack pressure).
Between intake manifold and PCV valve you also should install a checkvalve (better with a very low crack pressure).
#5
Re: dip stick blow out
Check for excessive blow-by; while the engine is idling, unscrew the oil filler cap and look for oil vapor puffing out the hole. If you have puffing, your ring lands are shot and it's time for a rebuild.
#6
Re: dip stick blow out
second guy is right, take hose off throttle body to valve cover, and put breather on the valve cover, and a plug on the throttle body, i had the same problem, use brake cleaner to clean up the old oil.
#8
Re: dip stick blow out
You may also want to double check and make sure your intake is not leaking it will do the same thing. I had this happen to me on my 92z28 with an ATI unit on it. I had my heads milled but not the intake(I know very stupid but I forgot) so it was leaking and it caused the oil dipstick to pop out and shoot oil out just like what happened to you.
Brad
Brad
#9
Re: dip stick blow out
maybe broken ring lands. Friend of mine forgot to hook up his breathers and when he got on it, the dipstick blew out. Ring lands on 3 pistons were broken. Like obe1 95z28 said, pull off the oil fill cap and see if smokes puffs out with motor running.
#10
West South Central Moderator / Special Guest
Join Date: Dec 1998
Location: Coppell, TX USA
Posts: 1,650
Re: dip stick blow out
before you go insane thinking you hurt the motor, make sure (as others stated) you arent pressurizing the crankcase. if you are not (PCV system is properly blocked) you have what we called a "blowed up motor"
#11
Re: dip stick blow out
That problem is usually because you have pressurized the crankcase. This is pretty normal when you do not have valve cover breathers on each cover and have pressurized via the PCV.
I would recommend looking into the PCV system to see if it is sealing under boost. You can always buy a check valve, it's pretty commonly sold from places like ATR.
Hope that helps.
I would recommend looking into the PCV system to see if it is sealing under boost. You can always buy a check valve, it's pretty commonly sold from places like ATR.
Hope that helps.
#12
Re: dip stick blow out
Something I find out recently:
I connected a checkvalve to the manifold, then the PCV valve, then a catch can then the valvecovers.
Checkvalve and PCV valve were hanging between catchcan and manifold.
In the morning we have here 20F or so and both valves were frozen locked.
No air flow at all and all the condensate was just sitting in the engine
The stock position of the PCV valve allows a fast heating because of a little metal blade; it looks like an holder but in fact it also transfers the heat from the engine to unfreeze the valve.
My new setup allows a fast heating of both valves
I don't know if this helps, but I thing that the PCV system is more complex than what it looks like.
I connected a checkvalve to the manifold, then the PCV valve, then a catch can then the valvecovers.
Checkvalve and PCV valve were hanging between catchcan and manifold.
In the morning we have here 20F or so and both valves were frozen locked.
No air flow at all and all the condensate was just sitting in the engine
The stock position of the PCV valve allows a fast heating because of a little metal blade; it looks like an holder but in fact it also transfers the heat from the engine to unfreeze the valve.
My new setup allows a fast heating of both valves
I don't know if this helps, but I thing that the PCV system is more complex than what it looks like.
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