I've got my pistons(Wiseco dished) and rods(Eagle H-beams)and I'm undecided on which crank to use. I don't think I need a forged crank and was looking at reusing the stock, or buying an Eagle or Scat cast crank.

IIRC, the Eagle's have a problem with breaking snout's off the front of the crank with heavy load on them. Anything like this for Scat? I've heard the Scat's seem to be shipped way out of balance. I know several local guys motors have held up fine with a stock crank/rod/blower, but there's always that chance of the stock one letting go.

The motor is going to be a 224/236, stock head, P600B with ~12psi, and a 6spd.

TIA,
Wade

 

Would an Eagle or Scat cast crank be any stronger than the stock crank assuming your going for the same Cubes?

 

I've been told that the stock crank will be sufficient for about 500rwhp - upgrading the rods and pistons would be mandatory. Would like other opinions on this setup tho.

 

Ttt

 

What some folks do is to buy a crank that has a big-block snout, which is meant as a prophylactic against the snout breaking off.

As to forged vs. cast; is this REALLY the area where you want to try to save money?

 

If you are looking to same some money.We have a group purchase going on right now for Callies Cranks.

 

i heard the stock crank and rods (powdered rods) were both good for up to 500hp. dont know what year your motor is so you may not have the powdered rods.

anyway, im thinking that the forces of the pulley on the snout are different than just simply having a 500hp motor. so i guess im saying is that a crank that can handle 500hp may not be able to handle the forces being exerted on the snout from the supercharger pulley.

but hey, who am i to talk, im running a completely stock bottom end!!!!!!!AAAAHHHHHHH

 

A great budget crank is the Scat 9000 series cast. It is the same casting they use for their 4340 forged cranks. The material they use for that crank is supposedly 30% stronger than stock cast nodular iron. If it is a street car and not a race car, I would think a cast crank would be fine.

The snout on my stock crank was slightly damaged because of no key on the hub (that's the way it comes stock) running the procharger for a few years. The stock hub tends to spin around the crank cause of no key. I just polished it down, put a new billet hub on there with a key and haven't had any problems with the stock crank yet. I haven't heard of any catastrophic LT1 crankshaft failures, the crank seems to be a pretty strong part.

I would recommend purchasing a complete rotating assembly which is already balanced. You can check ebay and other places.

 

I don't know if everyone saw it or not, but in the FIRST sentence, I said I've already got Wiseco pistons and Scat h-beam's.

Anywho, I already ordered an Eagle 4340 crank. Thanks for the help guys.

Wade

 

Thats is a nice crank.