Wondering what all of you are doing in terms of your cooling system. EWP, aftermarket radiator and if so which one (fluidyne, Becool, Griffin, etc) 160 stats, water wetter, straight water or mixtures of both?

I am currently running a EWP w/ a warning kit, 160 stat, 60/40 distilled w/ green coolant, 1 btl water wetter and stk radiator but I'm really thinking about something aftermarket that will just drop in no questions asked and the fluidyne seems to be the only one that will do that. Reason being is I hear many people say their temps are higher w/ blowers. Have no personal proof of that yet as I've yet to fire mine up. Minor set back w/ the oil pan.



TIA!

 

>I believe that Griffin has a drop in too

http://griffinrad.com







Part # Year Model Inlet Outlet Rows
Tube Size Additional Information

6-293AE-GAX 93-96 Camaro LT-1 outlets 2 row, 1.0" X X
6-293AE-GXX 93-96 Camaro LT-1 outlets 2 row, 1.0" X
6-293AE-BAX 93-96 Camaro top left bottom right 2 row, 1.0" X X
6-293AE-BXX 93-96 Camaro top left bottom right 2 row, 1.0" X
6-593AE-GAX 93-96 Camaro LT-1 outlets 2 row 1.25" X X
6-593AE-GXX 93-96 Camaro LT-1 outlets 2 row, 1.25" X
6-593AE-BAX 93-96 Camaro top left bottom right 2 row, 1.25" X X
6-593AE-BXX 93-96 Camaro top left bottom right 2 row, 1.25" X

 

I don't know the dimensions of the aftermarket radiators, but I will warn you that space can be limited depending on which SC type you get. I have the D1SC, and with no AC coils, I had to adjust my stock radiator forward a quarter of an inch because it was pretty much touching my supercharger belt with the back of the motor on the fans! I don't know that it is that crammed on all SC setups, but for the D1SC, if I had a bigger radiator, it would not fit!

 

I went with a stock replacement from advance auto parts. I was pleased to find that it had aluminum fins and was 1.5" thick as opposed to my stock 7/8". I barely got it to fit with my P1SC and 8 rib setup. I had to machine the spacers for one of the fans.

After it was all installed, I noticed that it didn't help my temps idling. I've come to the conclusion that the supercharger and bracket and 3 core intercooler disrupt the fan airflow just enough to cause temps to rise when sitting in traffic with the AC on in 90+ days. This is with a Meziere and 160 degree stat.

If i lift my hood it will idle all day at 170. This is why I think most of our supercharger heat issues are from lack of airflow. Another reason for me to do a FMIC.

 

for the cost of aftermarket radiators how much do they really drop the temps though? i don't take my car to the track i just drive it around town. i have a 160 stat, fans tuned,electric fan switch/manual switch also. the little bit i drive my car and dyno runs i have never had and heat problems with a s-trim pushing 8psi.

 

Seeing you had clearance issues w/ a 8 rib I can only imagine what my 12 rib will do. I don't have anything in front of my rad as I removed the AC long ago so I have more room to move it further up front. I just don't know how that will play into closing the hood as I can angle mine straight up but then the fan shroud would have to be modded too.

So many little things..............

 

stay with stock system. The only time u will notice the temps go up it siting in traffic. I have my both fans coming on at 190, so i never really get over that in traffic. cruising on the road the temps goes down to 170s with a 160 thermostat and CSI pump.
Marcin

 

I have a BeCool radiator in my car, and with their dual Spal fan setup, it works just fine with my 8 rib. When I switch over to a 12 rib/cog setup, I'm planning on swapping the driver's side fan to the front side of the radiator for clearance.

I'm currently running straight water, and my fans come on at 175. With a 160 thermo in the car on a normal day it never gets above 170. Here lately in the KC 104* degree heat (115 heat index), it's been creeping up to about 190 in traffic, but it never gets any hotter than that.

 

ponyhntr, are you running a FMIC? If not what do you have going. I read threads on the boards and think "no one can top 110* like it is here in vegas" but 104* is close enough! I've been thinking of going to a griffin myself.

 

No, I still have the stock ATI twins. I also do not have A/C, and am currently still running a stock waterpump (have a CSI to put on it, but haven't gotten around to it).

With my new motor I plan on running an ATI 3 core race intercooler in the front, so we'll see what it does then.

 

I have the stock radiator, about 60/40 water, water wetter, 160° stat with EWP and it gets up to about 180-185 on a hot day or in traffic, then the fans kick on. At cruise, it stays about 175.

 

I also have no AC, and there isn't much room you can push forward on the stock radiator. I was able to move mine about 1/4 of an inch. Even with moving it that little, I had to dremmel down the top of my plastic piece holding the radiator in place from the top so it wouldn't hit my hood. I also have a 160 thermostat, TB bypass, and the fans programmed to come on early, and my engine temps have been seeing 195. However this has been driving it around in Jersey the last week were the heat index has been 106+.

I also have an FMIC that I routed air from the bottom of the bumper which took away air from the radtiator. This probably adds to my slightly hotter temps. I ended up adding some more material to the bottom of the air dam for the radiator and this helped about 5 degrees, however I scrape all the time just by breaking in traffic .

 

My radiator can move a lot even w/ the fans in place and all under the shroud. Long story there. Short story.....front crash and body shop repaired it all but in a very different way so my radiator and air damn don't sit as they should but still get plenty of air. LOL!

 

I have the 1 1/4 oval tube griffin in my 94.....drop in my ***

 

Ponyhntr - Did you get custom intake piping done for the intake?

-B