Centrifugal Superchargers for carburetors
Centrifugal Superchargers for carburetors
What is the success of centrifugal superchargers for carburetors? The roots style generates tons of heat but the centrifugal chargers are supposed to supply a "cooler" airflow to the carb. That was from the Vortech website.
Do they suck eggs or are they pretty good systems?
Do they suck eggs or are they pretty good systems?
You need to talk to Scott at SD Concepts .. They specialize in carb'd blown cars w/ vortech and ati superchargers..
http://www.sd-concepts.com/
I think right on their first page there are some tests showing carb'd blown cars..
---Sean
http://www.sd-concepts.com/
I think right on their first page there are some tests showing carb'd blown cars..
---Sean
WOW! I talked to Scott for 30 minutes! He really knows his stuff. I've got some cash but I feel that I should save some more before taking his time with a build sheet. I can't recommend him enough.
I do feel bad to a certain extent because he spent so much time with me. But for what he's asking I don't have the $$$.
He did give a great perspective on the whole build. Running a blown carb set-up is different than EFI. Plus, the '69 has World II Iron heads. Scott also informed me the piston clearances are different on blown from N/A... So, converting to a blown set-up is much more involved that just bolting on a blower.
He also recommended pulling the heads and having him flow them and too de-stroke the engine from a 383 to a 355.
The fuel system is currently a Barry Grant but he recommends (Essex?) and a return line to have constant regulated pressure. Right now, my Barry Grant set-up only has a regulator with no return.
Also, by destroking the engine it will increase the Rod Ratio to a more desirable level.
However, I do notice that many members here go the 383 route and get blown. Hmmm... I would like to move out of the N/A motor... the lopey idle is really getting to me and the gas fumes are strong 106 LSA.
I guess there isn't a solution to go blown and get a 114 LSA on the carbed set-up... economically... without tearing apart the whole engine.
I do feel bad to a certain extent because he spent so much time with me. But for what he's asking I don't have the $$$.
He did give a great perspective on the whole build. Running a blown carb set-up is different than EFI. Plus, the '69 has World II Iron heads. Scott also informed me the piston clearances are different on blown from N/A... So, converting to a blown set-up is much more involved that just bolting on a blower.
He also recommended pulling the heads and having him flow them and too de-stroke the engine from a 383 to a 355.
The fuel system is currently a Barry Grant but he recommends (Essex?) and a return line to have constant regulated pressure. Right now, my Barry Grant set-up only has a regulator with no return.
Also, by destroking the engine it will increase the Rod Ratio to a more desirable level.
However, I do notice that many members here go the 383 route and get blown. Hmmm... I would like to move out of the N/A motor... the lopey idle is really getting to me and the gas fumes are strong 106 LSA.
I guess there isn't a solution to go blown and get a 114 LSA on the carbed set-up... economically... without tearing apart the whole engine.
Yea, scott is great, he spent close to an hour on the phone with me talking to me about the problems I was having.. He's a great guy.. Now to see if his products work <grin>
He was talking about SX fuel pumps, do a search, they make a lot of different fuel components..
You'll find a lot of arguments for the 383/355 build-up.. Fact is, Scott has some REAL fast cars, so, if you follow him, I don't think you'll be disappointed..
--Sean
He was talking about SX fuel pumps, do a search, they make a lot of different fuel components..
You'll find a lot of arguments for the 383/355 build-up.. Fact is, Scott has some REAL fast cars, so, if you follow him, I don't think you'll be disappointed..
--Sean
Scott is a cool dude.
The essex pump is excellent and I've driven with it on the street for 35k miles. Only trouble was a clogged filter. I had a guy weld on a sump to the stock tank and he poured in some sealer. The sealer broke loose and ended up clogging the filter. Swapped the filter out and I was back on the road.
Check the pics of the pump on his site.
Good to 1000hp each. Duals for over 1000hp.
http://www.sd-concepts.com/sdce_cars...challenger.jpg
The essex pump is excellent and I've driven with it on the street for 35k miles. Only trouble was a clogged filter. I had a guy weld on a sump to the stock tank and he poured in some sealer. The sealer broke loose and ended up clogging the filter. Swapped the filter out and I was back on the road.
Check the pics of the pump on his site.
Good to 1000hp each. Duals for over 1000hp.
http://www.sd-concepts.com/sdce_cars...challenger.jpg
Yes, they were to me. Now, ifin you are not planning to turn up the wick and stay around 450hp or less then mod a mechanical pump and forgetaboutit.
It's much better than messing with the holley color this and then having to buy a holley color that. End up paying the same amount anyway. Also, try buying the vortech stuff and the prices are comparable.
It's much better than messing with the holley color this and then having to buy a holley color that. End up paying the same amount anyway. Also, try buying the vortech stuff and the prices are comparable.
http://www.boostedhorsepower.com/Blowthru/Forums/
check out a new site dedicated to nothing but blowers and turbos through carbs. i run the vortech kit and it works great. there are a lot other options as well.
check out a new site dedicated to nothing but blowers and turbos through carbs. i run the vortech kit and it works great. there are a lot other options as well.
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surreybrad
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
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