Yo snorkleface - Where are you getting your bottom end built?

-B

 

I just put together a 383 with the Sledge Hammer crank, forged Eagle 5.7 H-beams, and SRP -16cc forged pistons. The crank was nice, and since it's cut for 5.7 rods, it didn't need much clearancing in the block at all. I had to add 4 pieces of Mallory to balance it.

It's an 11.5:1 N2O motor, or else I would have used a bigger dish on the piston. Seems like a pretty decent rotating assembly for the money... about $2k for everything.

 

I'm not sure yet. I'm still researching if I will have it done by someone via shipping, or just have Haddad arrange it. I can't use that used block because I wont get any warranty at all if I do so.

 

Are the H Series bearings you are recommending the rod bearings, or main bearings? I found the same listed for both applications.

Also, I'm being to told that the Sledgehammer crank for a 355 only comes in a 2 piece. Is there a Sledgehammer crank that will work without a conversion kit?

 

Why don't you just buy a rotating kit which is already balanced or even the whole short block already built, 4 bolt mains and all?

Check ebaymotors too. I've seen some good stuff on there. A few months back I saw a built 355 or 383 bullit proof 4 bolt main short block with a cola crank, manley rods, and JE pistons for about $4k. The same block with overseas parts was $3k.

IMO, if you don't race it regularly, these kind of parts are not needed. For a street car, you could get away with a scat 9000 series cast crank and scat rods with speed pro pistons 2 bolt main block. I guess it's all up to your budget and what you really want to do. Good luck.

 

A street car may be tougher on engine parts than a drag car, unless it's a max effort ***** to the wall setup. A 10 second drag car running 75 times in a season would see less than 15 minutes of WOT operation in 10 second bursts. I would guesstimate more than that much time at WOT on the street with my Camaro. I might drive it 100 days a year and I sure use WOT more than 7.5 seconds per day of use, on average. Also, it is going to have a few runs where it sees WOT for longer than just 10 seconds, and this is particularly hard on parts. And, of course, a street car sees hours of use at less than WOT, which also stresses parts to a point.

Rich

 

If I'm going to build the engine, I want to do it once. I'm having everything done for about the same price as you are mentioning, but with the parts I want to go in it. I'm not looking for a cookie cutter setup (although it's been done many times before). I want this engine to last no matter what abuse I throw at it.

So, how about that bearing question I had?

 

So you have experience building engines?

 

BTW, I have better parts in the bottom end of my street car than in my race car. So I am putting my money where my mouth is! Another aspect is that I tear down race motors every year, not street motors.

Rich

 

The motor is being built for me to my speciafications.

 

I'm being told by Lloyd Elliot that he believes I will need a -31cc dish on the piston to get an 8.5:1 CR (57CC head chambers). I haven't been able to find the JE piston for that application. Does anyone know a part # for this piston for 5.7 rods?

 

Part # 131631 for JE 383 5.7 rod HD blower piston w/ -31cc inv dome.

 

Jeg's recent catalog lists Lunati Sledgehammer crank- 3.75 stroke 1 piece seal,5.7 rods. $775.** It shows a picture of a nicely profiled, drilled throw crank. I think the Sledgehammer is not drilled or profiled.

 

It's profiled and drilled on 1 and 4.

Rich

 

I'm building a 355, not a 383. That's why I have to go with a two piece Sledgehammer model, and then go with the 2 piece Moroso adaptor.

Would that JE piston still work? Is it only the rod length and bore size the piston relates to?

On the profiling and drilling, what is that going to help?