A couple of years ago the car had a t-trim on it and with some crappy BFG drag radials it went 7.30 at 100.5mph full weight. In 2005 I sold the blower and the car.

The car was went up for sale again and I bought it back and basically its been sitting the last year or so until this August I got the itch to start playing with it again. I found a cheap brand new T-Trim on ebay and dove straight back in. The car made a couple trips to the track with no impressive times to speak of. The best it went was a 7.76 at 96.0mph with considerably less boost and not aftercooled. I tried on the next pass to leave a good bit harder but the optispark got wet from the bags of ice we left on the intake. It was popping and backfiring like crazy driving it back to the shop.

A couple of days later I decided to throw it back on the dyno to see if I could get my crude alcohol injection tuned in a bit better and also to see if a ignition box would clean up some of the missing I was having up in boost. The very first dyno pull with the ignition box blew a head gasket. The car had stock head bolts on it, it had been built since before I went to college, and it had cheapo felpro head gaskets on it so it wasn't a big surprise considering the abuse its seen over the years.

Since it blew a head gasket I decided to take it a bit further while its apart.

1. Change the cam from a 210/220 to one I had custom ground 224/236
2. Pull the ABS AC and PS
3. Some weight reduction
4. Snow Performance stg 2 Alcohol (progressive)
5. ARP head bolts
6. Cometic head gaskets
7. refresh heads, patriot dual valve springs, and 2.02 valve
8. pulling the catback & going with a dual setup
9. UMI front K-member and lower a-arms
10. Making a alternator relocation kit as I will not have a tensioner, PS pump, or AC.

At this point I'm 324 pounds lighter than the last time the cars been to the track. I have to go back and add exhaust which I'm going to say will weight no more than 35 pounds or so.

I still have some things I eventually want to do. One of the biggest things is a set of skinnies and slicks. I also want to take all the sound deadening out and replace the AC evap box with a 1LE AC delete box.

My goal is close to 600 RWHP and to run high 6's pretty easily. Nothing outstanding, just something to go out and fun with and not be worried with beating up on it. I'm trying my hardest not to spend a bunch of money on it because like I've learned in other hobbies the simpler you keep it the more fun you tend to have with it.

Here are some pictures


Check out a first attempt at a Alt relocation bracket. The final will be laser cut steel with AL spacers and done with a little more clearance around the frame rail.

 

nice, now go get a tubular k-member and a pinto rack and a FMIC

 

Don't get a 1le AC delete box. They are the same as with AC only empty. Get a cover plate. You can still keep heat with a cover plate.

 

Glad to see you back in the game. With all that weight reduction and good tires you should see some killer times. The alky kit should help alot also. On my alkycontrol kit I've noticed that it runs better when you purge it just before a pull(with the test button). I think the meth evaporates in the lines from the pump to intake over time.

 

Heres an update. 390 pounds not including the passenger seat. Still have the drivers airbag to remove, some airbag modules and sensors, and I want to do wheels and tires. So far the only thing I've purchased has been the K-member and lower a-arms.

 

Do you have any pictures or further information about how this is done?

 

you get a A/C delete plate, and drill two holes for the heater core

 

I have a 1le that I bought new in Sept. 1994 (1995 model). After doing headers a few times I decided to remove the "box". Having had cars with no heat before I decided to keep the heat. I removed the dash and then the box . Once out, I cut the portion of the box off that stuck out of the firewall. I did a mild port job to the box as the squirrel cage fans don't like restrictions very well. As reamo04 said drill two holes for the coolant lines in the plate (I made my own plate but BMR and others sell them). Make sure the corner piece (near the passengers feet - right over the core) is installed BEFORE!!! replacing the dash!!!! (or it will fall out). My heat and defrost work fine. The box (empty) does not weigh much but the access to the last header bolt is much improved and the engine compartment looks cleaner. Taking the dash out was easy but took a lot of time and patience. I had a service manual to help me when I did it. There are several detailed write ups on the net to assist with dash removal. LS1tech.com has one in the Drag Racing Tech portion.

 

wish i woulda known about that write up. I searched and could not find one when i did my car. Took out a bunch of those 9/32 screws that are all over in random places, and found out you only need to take out like 4 nuts