anyone running one on there s-trim or vortech blower? just wonder if you can hear it outside of the car? i have midlengths,off road pipe and loudmouth so car is very loud. i love the sound off the blow off on my buddies 04 wrx- sounds sweet. my car is a auto by the way.

 

Your kit should have come with a bypass, which is too small if you increase pulley size.

I ran my v2 with the stock bypass at first and hurt the bearings, am now running race bypass, T trim and an ATR blow that only opens on full throttle shifts.

Most of the time the vortec race handles all air but on WOT when I shift the blow off opens and I get a ricey whoosh.

John

 

well i jumped down to a size smaller then stock - so i should get a aftermarket bypass then. right. yes i have the stock one.

 

I felt the same way as you since most of my friends have turbo. However, you have to keep in mind that if the car is driving kind of slow and the BOV is loud than that probably mean the turbo is really small

On my car, at 6 psi is when I can just hear it and passenger side can't hear it yet. This is with a HKS SSQ BOV. IMO, this was a big waste of my money. At higher boost, it will get a little louder but hearing the whoosh will be the last thing in your mind or the person you are racing. You can definitely get one that is way louder.

I switch back to my stock bypass valve. I would highly recommend not doing the BOV. Also, keep in mind that the bypass valve is normally open while the BOV is normally close. This is because the supercharger is always active by your crank while the turbo is normally not. They are meant for different applications not really meant of supercharger even though it will kind of work.

 

so your just using the small black stock bypass valve that came with the kit then? what bout the other guy sayong that the stock bypass was to small for a pulley upgrade?
thanks

 

kind of expecting this question.

I dyno tune my call to 611rwhp with the black bypass valve that came with the kit. I think if it works properly, it should be fine up to that level or to about 11psi. LJ was using the stock bypass valve when he ran 9.9s at 139mph also.

If you are experience leaking bypass valve then it is malfunction and you may be losing some power. If you are blowing off your tubing then you should get some really good T-clamps.

All said, it never hurt to go bigger than you need for the bypass valve to save the supercharger. But if you need that couple of hundred dollars to mod something else, I won't bother with it yet.

cheers

--Hugh

 

well i have a 3.25 pulley which is good for 8psi and have a custom pipe i made like the brad brand tube so i might be up to 9 from all the research i have found out bout that. i got the kit used. so i kept the bypass in the same spot it was when i got the kit. on the one tube under the car for the intake end of the blower.

 

never had any of the tubes come lose on me. blew my head gaskets from a water pump problem. so the motor is apart and just wondered but the bypass upgrade. how do i know if mine is bad?

 

hmmm.. Where can I get that race bypass valve? Anyone have one for cheap? I have a 2.65 blower pulley and a 6.66 crank pulley.. still stock bypass.. Blower seems fine though.. How do you know if your bearings are bad??

 

I used the stock Vortech bypass when I had an S-trim. Worked fine.

Rich

 

pick up a stock bov from a dsm. i had mine up to 20 psi no leaks at all. and you can pick them up for like 20 bucks

 

Im sorry, but this is WAY off base.

Bypass valve and Blowoff valves are the same thing. blowoff means it does just that, it blows off the air to atmosphere once the throttle plate shuts and aggressive pressurization of the intake occurs, which isnt the best thing to do on a MAF equipped car. A bypass simply does the same thing, but there is tubing that will BYPASS everything and reinsert the air before the blower, but after the MAF(dont want to count the air twice) . and they are both open when they are in vacuum, because even though with a turbo or blower, you may not have gauged boost from the manifold, its still spooling and possibly pressurizing the intake piping, and if the bov/bpv is faulty and not open in vacuum, you will hear/feel the compressor surge, which is what will damage your blower/turbo. there is no point in time at which a properly working turbo has completely stopped spooling.


i second the DSM bov usage. its a very good unit, just make sure you pull it from a 90-94 eclipse/talon/laser 95-99 are plastic units and cant hold high pressures as well. if you go to VFAQ.com they have instructions on how to crush the 1G DSM BOV to hold more boost. but thats if your going to go outrageous with it. i ran 17psi on my laser and never had a leak issue.

 

I had the stock valve with my SQ that was pulleyed with a custom 7.2 and 3.12, around town and normal driving the stock valve worked fine.

That is till the bearings in the head unit failed, checked every other possible cause for failure no other reason.

I did not say you can't run the times, to run the times you do not need a valve. The valve is there to save the bearings in the charger when you make a WOT shift or let off the gas at high RPM.

The black valve is like 3/4 of an inch inside how can something so small divert up to 1000 cfm.

BTW the atr does not open under vac, needs both boost and vacumn to open. When it does open it is only for a second to relieve pressure. Procharger uses both types of valves on their D1 lt1 system

John

 

okay since my s-trim is setup for 8psi - what should i do- i'm kinda lost. like is the stock little block plastic bypass valve okay to still use? or should i buy something else? will the dsm one work on my 94 z28? where can i get one for $20 bucks at ???

 

I was wondering the same thing. I have a 6PSI powerdyne kit and it didnt come with anytype of blowoff valve and was wondering if I need 1? I have a friend with a dsm and he knows where to get them. (I think the DSM Boards)

Thanks
Matt