LT1553

Few questions guys, thanks for looking at my thread!

I want to run boost on my LT1.. I know that lower compression forged pistons and rods are needed. I've read that the stock crank is pretty durable and can be used. Why does everyone go 355 or 383 to run boost when putting in forged internals. Is it possible to take the bottom end apart and just "drop in" forged parts without any machine work? So say you bought forged pistons and rods and rolled new bearings/freshened up the bottom end and stayed 350ci? Would that work? I know it may not be optimal but sounds like it would be a lot more cost effective. Please explain what I need to do to run 8-10 lbs. reliably..

Thanks in advance!!

mrmint69

I think the reason people go better and bigger, is they want the vehicle to be done right and make serious horse power for the money they put into it. You put bare minimim in and you get bare minimum back. Just my 2 cents.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

If you have a 15+ year old engine, your cylinders are probably egg shaped and you can't just put in new pistons and rings and expect it to break in and seal correctly. It doesn't cost that much extra to get your cylinders bored and honed when you already need cleaning, decking, cam bearings, etc and .030 pistons are probably going to be easier to find than stock sized pistons at a discount supplier. But there's nothing inherently wrong with a 350 ci blown engine.

LT1553

Thanks for the good info guys. I'm checking with local machine shops for the cost to do the machine work and assemble the engine. Are there good forged "kits" that will come with everything I need to build a stout shortblock that will sustain moderate amounts of boost?

LT1553

Mrmint69,

Are you running your 6psi on the factory rotating assembly with factory heads/cam? If so how has that worked out for you? How long has it taken the boost this far without failure?

CALL911

Take a good look at the sticky at the top of this forum about the real cost of going FI. Plan on spending $15,000+ to do it right.

Theres a reason you don't see FI LT1 cars everywhere. The ones that go cheap don't last. The ones that last come with the expense that most don't have or don't want to invest.

Do it right and spend the money though, and you will find the FI beast you are looking for.

mrmint69

Everything is stock with 115K miles, except for the listed mods. I have had it for around five years with limited (guessing around 8K - 10K) miles and no issues so far.

CALL911

I would guess that you don't drop the hammer often, and if you do you are very lucky it's still holding together. It's only a matter of time. Non forged, high CR engines were not meant to handle boost.

mrmint69

My intentions was to buy all the supporting mods and power adders and when it was time to rebuild I would be ready. I actually have stayed away from the engine itself for that exact reason. There are things like changing the pulley to make more boost, that I decided against because I know this isn't going to hold together forever.

LT1553

I think I'm going to push my look and slap on 8lbs inter cooled and see what happens.. It's just a fun car neways.. Whole engine for this car costs 600 bux round here with low miles..

LT1553

Luck*

mrmint69

It seems there are lots of people running 6 or less on the stock engine and doing it with little trouble. You might be able to get away with it and since it insn't your only car with no money to fix it if it breaks, I would go for it.

LT1553

Respect!!

z28ke

I've been running about 7.5 lbs on my lt1 for 3 years now. Only internal mods are a cam, valve springs, comp r lifters, and roller rockers. The main reason it holds together is the methanol injection and the rich tune. I wouldn't worry about 6 lbs on the stock motor with meth injection properly tuned. Just make sure your injectors and fuel pump are up to the task and don't flog it in the heat.

LT1553

What kind of power are you guys seeing? Is 100hp to the ground unlikely?