Procharger (superchargersonline.com) $4,120
42# Injectors - $450
In-line fuel pump - $200

What else would I need in terms on tunning? I was also looking at the powerdyne which comes with a fuel pump and and standard programing chip.

 

new internals in about year.. can we say rebuild?










heh j/k. i think a tune, injectors, and fuel pump would be enough?

/tek.

 

i think tekker is right with the internals. do you also have plans on a new rear? what numbers does that s/c put down?

 

Don't let people scare you- the only time people blow these up, is with greed (too much boost) and ignorance (hot laps and bad tunes). The Procharger kit also comes with a pump, and you can go as little as 36lb'ers to ditch the FMU (with the right tune).

And skip the Powerdyne. Spend your money once.

 

Thank You Steve!! He is correct. You have the pump/injectors..just get a very good tune(best is dyno tune with yband 02 sensor).


Don't listen to the guys staying "oh, you'll have it a year before you need a new engine" crap. I guess that's why I've had the P1SC-2 on my car for 2.5 years and 46K miles (much needed roll eyes)

Just follow Steve's advice and you'll be good to go! If you have any questions, feel free to ask! have fun and Good luck!

(btw...I'm still on my stock 10 bolt and I have a M6/stage 3 Spec)

 

cool website kuppler, got my next mods picked out. i wasnt trying to scare anyone. ignorance was mentioned in a previous post. im guilty of that. i got greedy and had my wastegate set too high and cooked the engine. pistons and rings anyway. thats what did my car in. my first problem was with the rear tho. with increased torque and drag radials to grip better i had to upgrade the rear. its ignorance to think the rear is going to hold up if you jump on it in the 1/4. cobras have better rears but have issues with their driveshaft snapping during take-off. good luck with the setup.

 

You're right- my rear will probably end up dead in the long run...
But with an automatic, I will be able to have some time on it. No sense spending to prevent when I still need to spend on finishing my motor and tranny conversion.

 

To much money for the blower. Try TBYRNEmotorsports under vender list,they sold me a d1 twin IC for 3550. Dont buy a powerdyne you will kick yourself in the *** for years. As far as the stock motor goes save for a rebuild, some get away with it some dont. Dont get a inline fuel pump either, buy a gss340 for a 120bucks or so and be done. You will also need a near perfect tune to keep it safe. You forgeting lots of little things ignition/BTM, gauges, plugs,........

 

since i didnt have it done in the first place, what all is involved with "a good tune job"? what all is calibrated?

 

im running a racetronix 255lph HP kit, 42# injectors (to get rid of the FMU)...if your mechanically inclined, you can find a used vortech for about 1500 or so...i bought mine for 1800 with aftercooler but just sold the aftercooler so honestly only spent about 1400 setting it all up, injectors, fuel pump, tuning...im going to dish out another 250 or so and make a wideband 02 setup i can mount in the car aswell.

as far as tuning, you might be able to get away without using a BTM (boost timing master) normally wide open throttle i am only seeing 22* Spark advance with the chip...what all would be included in a good tune would be proper AF ratio achieved throughout the RPM band (i suggest tuning for the cooler seasons for safety, seen too many people here in FL tune during the summer with 100 degree weather, then get excited about picking up a 1/2 second when its like 35 out then blow on the next pass due to running lean) TTS datamaster is a very good program in my opinion aswell. a good tune should consist of proper injector calibration, air/fuel calibration, spark advance/retard, fan temp changes, intake temps, and even though you may not deem it necessary...part throttle tuning aswell, i know some people only like to modify the PE tables thoroughly while not really effectively tuning part throttle spark/fuel maps and that could be just as hazardous in my opinion.

 

I hear ya on the rear end. thats why street tires stay on my car. they'll spin before anything breaks

 

I will disagree with you on that one. Putting a blower on a car is a gamble. Sure the things you have mentioned will help but there is no guarantee that your motor will still not go bad. Face it LT1's are not designed for boost. I got probably 4 months out of my motor (Did not abuse it, did not get boost greedy and had all the things that you mentioned). On the otherhand one of my friends has had a blower for a few years and beats the hell out of his car (stock shortblock and still running strong). I have seen more cases were people have blown their motor relatively quickly and less cases were they lasted a long time.

 

Tuning, tuning, tuning. I've had mine over a year, and had blown cars before this one. I've never had an engine problem (knock on wood!). People tune these things to the last degree to get the most power. I prefer to tune out a little buffer, just to keep it safe.

I too am still running my 10-bolt, and the original stock clutch. Sure I can't launch at 6,000 rpms, but I wouldn't be doing that anyway....

Mike M

 

Funny, I always thought the ATI kits CAME with the inline pump. That's way too much for a p-series charger. If that's a price for a D-series, skip it..you'll grenade the motor before you have any fun. What kind of cam are you running? Something like a 306 will affect the performance of a supercharged motor, and not for the better. Don't forget the extra stress put on the rest of the drivetrain from the increase in power.

Tuning is vital for a blown motor. Mine lasted right at 3 years on a stock longblock and transmission. Make sure to get a fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge for tuning purposes. Also, 36# injectors will work, but I would think about upping the fuel pressure a bit to be safe.

These motor are not made to take a lot of pressure. The ringlands of the hypereucraptic slugs just don't like it at all.