Ive got a problem with my current belt setup, im running a ysi with a cog pulley setup and its stripping the teeth right off the belt, the last belt probably lasted about 500 miles. Is there any reccomendations on how to make them last a little longer...ie, polishing pulleys, anodizing pulleys, kevlar belt? and also, is anyone here running a rib setup with a ysi? how many ribs. I cant see any rib setup working when i am ripping off cog teeth...this blower is such a beast its unreal

 

It sounds like one of two problems or a combo of them.

1) You have too much belt tension
2) When you let out of the gas and the throttle blades slam shut your blowoff valve can't handle the volume of air the blower is moving.

Another possible problem could be belt alignment. The blower bracket could be flexing under load if there is too much belt tension.

I am going to do a cog setup and have been advised to run TWO Vortech Mondo or ATI race blowoff valves to properly evacuate boost when letting out of the throttle.

I hope this helps and good luck.

Later,


Steve.

 

I agree with the above, sounds like your belt tension is to much. Loosen it up a little and try that.

 

i had a 8" w/ 2.75 on mine, had to go down to 7" w/ the 2.75 8 rib and gettin 15 lbs @ 5000rpms. hate to know what the 8" was

 

How are you tensioning the belt? if you are runing powergrip GT2 belt which if i remember correctly i seen pics of your set up and you are, you should tension it from inside on the teeth side. Belt tension should be tight, not string tight but its def not the belt tension thats doing it. I'm running a Polychain GT2 carbon 36mm belt, they arent cheap but super strong. My pulley size as follows 78teeth crank/28 blower(but this was the problem, i was told not enough belt wrap on a 28tooth pulley, so i steped up to 30mm, see how it works today. I saw about 29#s on the 78/28 combo but i didnt last but a few burst down the street, car made 680rwhp at 17# then the belt broke that was at 4k rpm.

 

This is incorrect. With the rubber Powergrip belt, it should be tensioned against the smooth side of the belt.

The Kevlar Polychain belts are the ones that should be tensioned against the teeth, as you shouldn't back-bend those, it will break the kevlar strands and will cause early belt breakage.

 

I might be incorrect on the rubber belt but the NEW poly chain CARBON not KEVLAR can be tightened from the back side as well.
Poly Chain® GT® Carbon™ Belt


Gates new Poly Chain® GT® Carbon™ Belt.
Nothing Tougher.
If you thought roller chain was your only drive option, think again. Gates new Poly Chain® GT® Carbon™ belt is part of a powerful synchronous belt drive system that outperforms roller chain in even the most demanding high-torque applications.

Gates Poly Chain® GT®2 belts have been replaced with Poly Chain GT Carbon belts. In most drives they serve as a direct replacement. If you have questions, please click on the Product Application link below.

Gates Poly Chain GT Carbon belt offers enhancements that exceed the current market-leading Poly Chain GT®2 belt, including:

better performance
more flexibility for use with backside idlers
greater resistance to moisture

 

I was unaware that the Kevlar belts had been replaced by the Carbon ones. I guess they just changed over, so it may be a while before the all of the kevlars in stock run out. Thanks for the info!

But I am sure that the rubber belt should be run on the back side.

 

no problem heres more info, the teeth of this belt are blue
Mountain Performance in Salt Lake City supercharges Yamaha snowmobiles with a high performance package that takes the machines from Stage II (crazy fast) to Stage III (you've got to be kidding!). The only drive system that can do the job: Poly Chain GT Carbon belts on a drive with a 3.5-inch backside idler that can withstand 13,000 RPM with ZERO failures. Try that with chain!
and heres a renegade guy talking about his powergrip belt set up
The next problem to overcome is the fact that every Mustang passenger side supercharger mount puts the idler on the drive side of the belt and that the idler is on the back side of the cog belt. If you look at any race application cog setup you will see the idler is always on the cog-side of the belt. The reason is cog belts are molded in a process that bonds the cogs to a normal belt with a nylon-type mesh. This design is not setup to be bent backwards as is caused by running the idler on the back of the belt. This separates the cogs from the belts and will eventually cause all the cogs to rip off (I have a big collection of cog belts with no cogs - LOL). The problem is you had to have the idler on the back of the belt with a passenger side setup due to the water pump interfering with the belt. With the new pump/pulley combination this is not a problem.

 

any pics of your cogs guys???

 

Do not use cogs on a street car. A 12-rib will almost certainly transmit the needed power to drive the blower with FAR less hassle and expense. Cog belts break, strip, or roll off the pulleys unless they are perfectly aligned, very rigidly mounted and most of all not constantly subjected to loading and unloading. It's not easy to get them to work on a track car, let alone a street car.

Rich

 

my new set up is working out nicely made 10+ passes on the dyno the other day, had fuel pressure problems though wating on my Boost a pump and should be back on the dyno tomorow.

 

yeah i was going to have asp make me 12 rib set up for me if this last thing i tried wouldnt work but it works like a charm so far.

 

Im actually running an HTD style Powergrip GT-2 belt. They have rounded cogs so i dont think they can be tensioned from the ribbed side like a polychain, which has flat bottomed ribs.

I will probably end up having a 12 rib setup made this winter asI am not getting anywhere near the amount of boost i want on the current setup. Im only seeing 10 psi from a 68/26 setup at around 5500 rpms. Im looking to run about 18-20 psi. Littleredz, how is the new 30 rib pulley working out for you? how much boost are you seeing and at what rpms?

 

its a 36mm polychain set up, 78/30 i'm seeing 25lbs or so, kina hard to watch the boost gauge while holding on , i made 4 passes last friday with no issues, only got one decent pass off, tried to leave on T/B 12psi or so, blew the tires off, let off got back in it, shifted from 1st to 3rd ratchet shifter went out of adjustment, and ended up with 10.26@143mph with a 1.91 60ft, i'll be at the track today see what she can pick up with actually hitting 2nd gear this time and a little better 60ft.