Just curious to see if anyone here is running spray with a turbo or SC and how you have it setup. I was looking under the hood the other night, and it hit me that instead of upgrading the blower or drastically changing anything, I might just put a bottle on it for an extra 100hp when needed. Obviously, going to build the motor first, then if falls short on expectations I think a small shot will get it there.

I'm thinking of running a single nozzle (dry) right before the MAF so proper calculations can be made for fueling. Also, got the LTCC and it has a function to retard spark advance with increasing RPM (or run the 2step). I already have that set up to a toggle switch in the cockpit currently. Seems like I would only need to buy a bottle, bottle mount, blow down tube, bottle warmer, nozzle and jet, steel braided line, and a window switch. Thinking of putting the bottle where the console used to be as i've already ripped that out.

If anyone has tried has some experience here, please chime in. Pics would be great as well. Thanks.

 

im hooking my wet kit up ontop of my F1... but im running a wet kit. i dont want to rely on my injectors to deliver the fuel when i can add it on my own, but im only going to add like a 50 shot just incase...

 

There are some people on here who are running both nitrous and a blower and maybe a couple running nitrous, blower and meth/water injection. I'm not sure about your theory on fueling because the blowers max out the MAF pretty easily once in boost. Your injectors may end up being a bit too small, too. Nitrous can have a cooling effect on the compressed air, though, so that works to your advantage.

 

What HP level does the MAF start maxing out? I'm up at 5200ft so i'm guessing uncorrected, i'm making around 300-320RWHP at 6-7psi. With it built and blower cam, i'm thinking it might get to 360-380. How much will the 42# typically support? My stock 24s were working fine with current setup, i just decided to be cautious and put in a bigger injector.

I'm hoping that cooling effect will also reduce chances of detonation. I'm not sure how a certain jet affects horsepower with FI. For example, does a 35hp jet make around that, or possibly double because its cooling off a dense charge? The dry nx kit i'm looking at has 35,50,75 jets so i'd obviously start at the lowest and see what would happen datalogged.

 

You can't spray thru the MAF on the LT1's because the PCM isn't fast enough to correct for fueling. Only on later model LS's. You want your nozzle in the elbow past the MAF. Your best bet if you go dry is the NOS 5176 kit for the LT1. It ups the fuel pressure via the fuel pressure regulator for the extra fueling. The type of injector is important if you run this kit. You'll want an injector like the Ford SVO's. An injector like the stockers can lock up under the higher pressures if they are pushed to the limits. Not good... 42's may be on the small side. All depends on what your duty cycle is running when your not spraying it. If its already too high, you want a bigger injector in there, like a 60. You'll need at least a HV 255 fuel pump like the Racetronix setup in the tank, but you may still fall short on fuel volume. Then a dual in tank setup will be required. You'll know if your volume is falling short by watching your fuel pressure. If your WOT, like on the dyno and your running a boost referenced regulator, your falling short if your pressure starts dropping as boost increases instead of increasing. This will be amplified when you spray with that dry kit. Your pressure should increase quite a bit when you spray with that kit. If not, then your falling short as well. You'll also know when your adding to your WOT fueling in your tune and it stops going anywhere. Also, you want to make sure you have the right piston ring gaps in there. With boost and nitrous, you'll need bigger gaps. If you already run them big with the boost, then you should be fine. If your running them for a NA setup, then you may need to worry. You need to decide where your going to go with this. Since most of us keep going bigger, then i'd plan ahead now if it were me. Dual pumps, larger fuel lines in a parallel fuel rail setup and dial the timing down in the tune.

Ken R.

 

I'm not sure what horsepower it maxes out at, but mine used to do it when I had a S-trim, stock cam, stock heads with 1.6 rrs. I'm not sure about your situation up in the clouds. I did up the limit to 509 with programming, so at least make sure you do that. I don't know how much hp you can make with 42# injectors, but I was at the max pulse width sometimes with the S-trim, cam & heads - maybe about 480 rwhp? I never had my car dynoed, so I never knew how much power I had in a given setup but what I could estimate from trips to the track.

Nitrous always has a cooling effect and I don't think FI doubles the effect by any means, it's just hotter to begin with. The damage can happen because the intake charge burns faster with all that oxygen and if you don't get the timing pulled back closer to TDC, it will burn too quick while the piston is still going up then the poor piston is jammed back down and trying to turn the crank the other way...or if you run too lean then it's like a flame cutter in there.

 

Good info ya'll, it sounds like a dry setup might get a little more complicated than I was hoping for. The location of the nozzle would replace the plastic barb next to the K&N sticker. I ignored the wet setup at that location, because i'm not sure how the MAF would be affected/damaged?



On the bottom side of the intake manifold elbow, i have a plug there as well which could be perfect for a wet setup (and a little more hidden). Also, it would be spraying directly into the manifold, which would hit a little better i think. But then again, would the fuel jet be enough for an FI application? Would i need a dual fuel pump setup?

I need to decide sometime soon if i'm going to integrate spray when i build this motor. The general build i'm pondering will be stock crank/rods, .030 over, forged pistons (not set on a brand/CR yet), LE1 heads with 1.6RR, LE blower cam, stock intake manifold, stock TB.

I don't plan on using spray very often. There are so many fast cars these days it would be nice to have something that gives this old car a chance to attempt to run with some of the big dawgs on occasion. I'm thinking a little gas would be much more affordable than upgrading the blower/switching to a turbo/etc. I don't want this to get too expensive or it just won't be worth it.

 

Rich Krause on here runs nitrous with FI. He has done a lot of work with Kennedy's Dyno Tune on this. His username is rskrause. I would check with him--he can probably answer your questions.

 

You should definitely run dual intank pumps for this setup. You will be borderline with one pump and if you decide to do nitrous on top of boost, you're asking for trouble w/o dual pumps. The 42 lb injectors should be ok for now at that boost level. Definitely run a wet kit, its safer IMO. Once you get it dialed in its good to go unless you have a fueling failure like pump or regulator or something along those lines. Get gauges and never rely on a tune once its good. Boost and a little spray are real fun, they almost go hand in hand if the engine is built to handle it. I would do a plate kit or nozzle, after the MAF of course.

I dont think stock rods are a good idea if you're working it over anyways. Get some scat 4340 I beams with the 7/16 bolts for added insurance. Stock crank should be ok for what you're planning FOR NOW.

 

Sounds motivating! Ok, I'm leaning towards the NX wet kit 20421-10.
For the dual pumps, how about a 2nd walboro tapped in with a Hobbs switch? Maybe adding a boost reference fuel pressure regulator? What's a rough estimate of retard timing degree's per 1k increasing rpm?

 

2ND Walbro is what most guys here seem to be running. Might want to consider a standalone fuel system for the nitrous so you can run higher octane fuel in the standalone for when you spray and 93 in the main tank. Seems 1-1.5* per psi boost and dont forget to pull another 2* per 50 shot. So 10 psi boost you pull about 10-15*. Dont worry about the rpm. LT1 regulator is boost referenced. So if you aint increasing fuel press. equally per psi boost then fuel volume is inadequate. My s-trim is maxed on pulley speed and on the 350 by about 5000 rpm im near max boost. I think I start pulling timing around 2800. You need to make a baseline and then run it and watch the tach and boost gauge and see where yer at.

 

I wish we had 93oct up here. Mostly 90, but 91 if your lucky. Stand alone fuel sounds cool, but going to get more expensive/more custom than i want to get. I'm going to start adding a little race gas to my fuel mix here in a couple months to boost octane when the car doesn't do anymore daily driver miles.

 

Or do a meth injection kit, they work good

 

Still interested in some info? I have done this and it works great.

Rich

 

yes, please. Depending on how much cash i can collect here within a few months, if the budget to build the motor falls short then i'll build the nitrous setup first.