I’m not usually one to defend what just about anyone charges (I’m a total cheap bastard and try to do anything to get out of paying for stuff like this, probably one of the reasons why I come across as a “he can fix anything” person), but that really isn’t that outrageous.

He isn’t getting billed for labor more then once (ex, the labor for the head bolts is much less then that for the valve covers because that labor charge assumes that the valve covers are already off). A lot of us have to remember also that as we work on our cars we change things around to make jobs easier later, so for those of us that have moved a bunch of plumbing… 2.2 hours for valve cover gaskets sounds insane, but if someone were to put all the factory goodies back on our cars then bolted up a blower on top of that it would probably take that long.

The shop rate appears to be $70/hour, which around here would be considered pretty good. Last I checked shop rates here run around $65/hr for any old monkey to work on normal stuff (say a brake job), where here we’re dealing with aftermarket/more demanding work. I wouldn’t say that $70 or even 75/hr is out of line (although I wouldn’t pay it because of my already mentioned problem, being cheap and sorta enjoying wrenching on my cars). I know of 2 local shops that do a lot of high performance and even some custom work that charge $100/hr labor and they always seem to have at least a 3 week waiting list….

Of the parts prices, you’ve got to remember that it’s normal practice to mark up parts prices for shop work, and even in an average garage (again, no high performance work) as high as 30% isn’t unheard of. Many shops won’t even discuss you bringing your own parts, sometimes will give you BS excuses like they won’t guarantee the work or whatever, while others will be fairly straight forward and tell you flat out that the labor charge will be different since they intend to make the same profit on the work whether you or they supply the parts. All that being said, the only thing on that list that looks outrageous is the price of the plugs, but if you wanted any gimmick plug then that is probably appropriate.

Lastly, I don’t know how much actual dyno time you got billed for, but if you had the mechanic tearing around helping you get replacement parts, dealing with assorted BS… I wouldn’t be surprised if you got billed for most of a day of labor. Most shops probably would have told you something like “well, we can get you going for $XXX,” and when you said “no, I’ve got a warranty on the starter” or whatever would have pushed the car off the dyno and left you to your own devices to get around, get home…

I’m not picking on you, just pointing out that those don’t seem to be that outrageous charges and if things didn’t cost in that range probably 2/3 of the members that work on their own cars on assorted car related boards/lists would just pay someone.

I’d be interested what the quote comes out to at the second shop, especially if it’s for exactly the same work.

Good luck in getting all the little problems ironed out.

 

WS6 TA, I don't disagree with what you just said. I can see where you're coming from. The shop where my car is now is B&P Racing. They, however, charge $50/hr for EVERYONE that comes to their shop. It became apparent to me that where my car was is charging based on how much the owner thinks you can afford (after he takes you to lunch and drills you about your career, income potential, etc.). I was quoted THREE different amounts for dyno time during the day (noone there can remember what they told you ten minutes before) and at NO TIME did anyone say I was being charged while my car sat on the dyno with nothing being done to it. And no, there was no one waiting in line. We agreed on $600 for a dyno tune in January. After two runs on the dyno we found that the fuel system wasn't sufficient so we stopped. I said I would be back after I redid the fuel system. I paid $450 of the $600 agreed amount that day. I came back and let the manager know that I had paid $450 of the agreed upon $600 for the tune. She said "it was $750." I'm like "what!?" She finally accepted the fact that she wasn't there when the tuner and I agreed on the $600 (and who charges $750 anyway when you're using MY o2 sensor and MY software?). The only thing I took away from my experience there is that prices are subject to change AT ANY TIME. My response to that is "no thank you." I paid them over $1100 for the work that was done (changing my starter and cleaning two plugs) and tuning (four total hours of dyno tuning time on two different occasions). I can say with great relief that I will NEVER go there again.

As far as the new shop. The verbal estimate given to me is less than $1,000 which is $500 cheaper. I'll have the written estimate today. I'll post it when I receive it.

 

Well, let me temper what I said before with: What a ****ty way to do business.

Also, one thing that had me wondering was that the labor rates that I was posting were from the DC Metro area (and funny, Rich posted almost similar rates from around buffalo, which is the only other place I’ve ever lived in), but I was under the impression that rates were more reasonable in most other areas.

BTW, dropping that labor rate to $50/hour will drop your price by almost $400 with no changes to parts prices and estimated time…

Like I said, good luck

 

That really sucks! There are so many well known companies that tune in your area that it seems like the people you took your car to thought they are the only ones that have a dyno. I am putting the blower back on mine soon and I have to travel at least 6 hrs to get it dyno tuned. I'd say trailer it to the dyno next time, it just might save you a lot of money and headaches.

 

The leakdown test at the new shop resulted in 5 cylinders at 4-6%, 2 at 10-12%, and 1 at 25%. The one that was 25% was 90% when first tested. It seems the valve lash adjustments were everywhere and not even close. The number 7 cylinder had a valve that was stuck open during the first test. It appears that, amazingly, there are no burnt valves and that the leakage is around the rings. I can only assume that that is from running the car WAY rich so often while changing stuff and trying to tune it. I'm going to leave it the way it is and freshen it up at the end of the year. The original tuner has agreed to finish the tuning at a different shop and/or at the track. The car should be done Friday and we'll tune it next week. I'll let you know if it breaks into the 13's..........

 

TTT....people need to see this for future reference

 

Here's the estimate as I can remember it (price is correct, parts list may not be 100% accurate due to my short term memory issues ):

Labor:

Leakdown test
replace plugs and wires(over the valve cover)
adjust valves
R&R head bolts
Flush radiator
Replace intake gaskets
Replace header gaskets
Replace valve cover gaskets

Parts:

Tr6 Plugs
MSD custom fit wires
ARP LT1 highest strength Head Bolts
Intake gaskets
Valve cover gaskets
Earl's killer Header Gaskets
Can of "sumpin'" to try and lower leakage points
Coolant/Antifreeze
Other stuff I can't remember

Total: $890

AND.................

Install new Torque Converter
Stage II shift kit
new tranny fluid, etc.
new poly' tranny mount

Total: $430

GRAND TOTAL: $1,320.00

That is $141.40 less than the first estimate but INCLUDES installation of a TC, shift kit, etc.

What do guys think? (Besides "you should have done it yourself").