i have a 4-bolt block with steel caps & studs, callies 4340 3.875 crank, eagle 4340 5.85 rods with upgraded bolts, & custom JE pistons .010 over with a compression ratio of 9.2:1-58cc or 7.9:1-76cc. its a 391.5 c.i.d.
for lack of money i'll have to start with stock LT1 heads & save for some AFR's to be installed later.
as far as a cam, i like what i've read about the one that you had in your 385.
my car is a 93 M6 with Hooker LT's, Borla cat-back, no cats (not required in my state), & dual cut-outs behind the headers. it also has a Moser 12-bolt.
it won't be a daily driver (i might daily drive it some), but i would like to be able to take it on road trips. like 5 hours to the beach, 4 hours to the casino & such.
it would be nice (if possible) to be able to run 10's in street mode (on drag radials, thru the muffler, & on 93 octane pump gas).
should a fellow start with low boost & work his way up, or can he pour it to it right off the bat? do you like my cam choice? should i look at an S-trim, T-trim, P1, or D1?

thx

 

I'd start with a T trim or a D1 and set it for 10-12 PSI.

 

how much power would my engine make with a t-trim or D1 with 10lbs. of boost? would it run 10's on 93 octane?

 

I am kind of partial to the Vortech compressors. However, you will need to have some sort of intercooler or water injection to keep the intake air temps down and the ATI twin intercooler setup for 4th gens is slick. So, overall I'd feel most confident recommending A D1-SC with the twin intercoolers.

As far as boost and power, the stock heads are going to restrict hp, even though you will see very high boost (partially due to the stock heads) if you crank the blower way up. I don't know of a 4th gen car with stock heads running 10's with any level of boost. They are just too heavy for the amount of hp you can expect. I'd recommend cranking the boost up to 10-12psi to run on 93. With your M6 and a good cam you should see somewhere around 500rwhp.

Rich

 

don't you guys "break in" your engines before the supercharger install?
which cam? 3190/3192 or 3192/3196?
also, how expensive is teflon coating & is it necessary for my application?
so it might be best to wait & get the AFR's to see if i could hit 600rwhp like you did Rich when you had the setup with the 385 & M6. which AFR's? 195 or 210?

thx

 

It doesn't hurt to break in the engine before you run the blower. Basically don't run the belt, and don't hook up the oil feed and return lines, just plug them up. If you're running a self contained blower, then you can run it right off the bat.

The 224/236 is a good blower cam for an LT1. As far as coatings go, do a google search on Swaintech. I won't say you will or won't need coatings, but they are nicety to have.

Instead of spending $1800 dollars for a set of AFR heads and another $1000+ to have them ported, you may just want to have your stockers ported out. The ones that I'm having done are flowing around 285 on the intake. Granted that is a fully race prepped LT1 head done by a professional porter.

Just some of my twisted thoughts.

 

Ported AFR 195cc castings end up ~210cc. Just as with NA, if you want to move the power band up the rev range and make more peak hp, a larger port will help all else being equal. Mine are 195cc but I would consider the 210cc AFR head for the way I use the car now. I used to drive it a lot more and had it set up with a smaller cam. I think I liked it better before and am contemplating going to back to that earlier setup.

As far as coatings, the most useful in this context are (in order of utility) a thermal barrier coating for the piston crowns, TBC for the exhaust valve face, and TBC for the combustion chamber surface. Antifriction coatings are worth a few hp but are quite low on the power/$$$ scale.

As with any new motor, take it easy until you are sure everything is right and the parts have had a chance to bed in, rings to seat, etc. But there is no specific breakin required for a blower car, just careful tuning.

Rich