210cc vs 220cc for my app
210cc vs 220cc for my app
Here's what I am looking at, and I'll be honest- I am quite confused.
On a 355 w/ a P1SC- how do I go about balancing my options in order to get a 9 or 10 second timeslip, without having to trailer the car everywhere? I realize a portion of it has to do with injectors/programming, camshaft, heads and how much boost I am running.
My options include the AFR 210cc and AFR 220cc head for LT4 applications. I realize a solid roller will net me a bigger gain than a hydraulic roller (obviously)- but as I sit here and get ready to order the parts- how should I tackle this?
Should I just do the fuel system, rear and tranny- and hope I can make up my mind by the time I get around to the motor?
Of course, with this type of post- I know you guys are gonna ask me what I want to accomplish. All I can tell you is that I wouldn't be driving the car everywhere because I am sick of getting it painted (hit, keyed, etc)! lol. So I have a blazer for my every day duties. On the other hand- it'd be nice to have a car that can at least cruise with my friends and their 10 second rides on the weekends as we hunt for stuff.
Can some of you guys help me focus my thoughts? I can appreciate the streetable 10 second rides, but if I am doing this from scratch- I might as well build it once, ya know?
Steve
On a 355 w/ a P1SC- how do I go about balancing my options in order to get a 9 or 10 second timeslip, without having to trailer the car everywhere? I realize a portion of it has to do with injectors/programming, camshaft, heads and how much boost I am running.
My options include the AFR 210cc and AFR 220cc head for LT4 applications. I realize a solid roller will net me a bigger gain than a hydraulic roller (obviously)- but as I sit here and get ready to order the parts- how should I tackle this?
Should I just do the fuel system, rear and tranny- and hope I can make up my mind by the time I get around to the motor?
Of course, with this type of post- I know you guys are gonna ask me what I want to accomplish. All I can tell you is that I wouldn't be driving the car everywhere because I am sick of getting it painted (hit, keyed, etc)! lol. So I have a blazer for my every day duties. On the other hand- it'd be nice to have a car that can at least cruise with my friends and their 10 second rides on the weekends as we hunt for stuff.
Can some of you guys help me focus my thoughts? I can appreciate the streetable 10 second rides, but if I am doing this from scratch- I might as well build it once, ya know?
Steve
To answer you cylinder head question, most people consider the AFR 190/195's best for a 350, but good for a 383. The 210's are best on a 383, but good for a 400 also. The 220's are best on large displacement small blocks running high rpm.
I'm using the 210's on my next motor, which is a 383.
Something else to consider is that, according to AFR, the 220's don't flow much more than the 210's. So, you get the disadvantage of low velocity without a big advantage in flow.
Mike
I'm using the 210's on my next motor, which is a 383.
Something else to consider is that, according to AFR, the 220's don't flow much more than the 210's. So, you get the disadvantage of low velocity without a big advantage in flow.
Mike
Steve: what Mike said makes sense. Another thing to keep in mind is that the exhaust side of the heads is more of an issue on a blower car than the intake.
I am happy with my 195's, FWIW.
Rich Krause
I am happy with my 195's, FWIW.
Rich Krause
Hmm- I never considered that head before. If I set the car up correctly: Do you think i could hit 9's with a 195? And I would assume it'd drive better than a motor with huge heads?
Thanks!!
Steve
Thanks!!
Steve
Originally posted by steve10358
Hmm- I never considered that head before. If I set the car up correctly: Do you think i could hit 9's with a 195? And I would assume it'd drive better than a motor with huge heads?
Thanks!!
Steve
Hmm- I never considered that head before. If I set the car up correctly: Do you think i could hit 9's with a 195? And I would assume it'd drive better than a motor with huge heads?
Thanks!!
Steve
.Ryan
9 or 10 second time slips.... So you are going from 14's and right to 10's. That takes alot of power, plus the correct suspension to harness the power. Power without control is worthless.
WHERE IS MY STICKER??????????
WHERE IS MY STICKER??????????
Well, the goal was to make so much power that I could run a 9 second timeslip on a 3.5 sixty footer.
12 bolts and suspensions are for losers!
I'll be in Nashville this weekend. Give me a call and I will get you a sticker.
S.
12 bolts and suspensions are for losers!
I'll be in Nashville this weekend. Give me a call and I will get you a sticker.
S.
Last edited by steve10358; Jul 16, 2003 at 10:24 PM.
Well to make SO much power, you are gonna need a bigger blower than a P1SC, more cubic inches than 355, and strong transmission (4l60e won't last) and a 12 bolt or Ford 9" because the stocker won't last long either. Just putting a blower, on a 355 with good heads doesn't equal 9 or 10's for that matter
The way I see it Jason Z- Solid Roller 355 w/ the right head (still deciding) + 15+ psi of boost, plus 12 bolt/slicks, my suspension, tranny and fuel = 9 second timeslips.
Heck, even stock heads w/ cam and the right suspension can net you high 10's. So why the hostility in your posts, Z?
I think my game plan is pretty solid, not to mention I am getting help from some people that have been there before. Thanks for the concern, Mr. Z.
Steve
Heck, even stock heads w/ cam and the right suspension can net you high 10's. So why the hostility in your posts, Z?
I think my game plan is pretty solid, not to mention I am getting help from some people that have been there before. Thanks for the concern, Mr. Z.
Steve
Last edited by steve10358; Jul 17, 2003 at 07:47 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



