A couple rookie questions for the vets...

Vortech stock LT1 elbow has a divider down the center of it...any need for it? Can it get hacked out and polished? The intake isn't divided, can't see why it would need to be there...but if someone knows something I don't, please enlighten me.

Is it senseless to put a BOV on an Automatic car? My foot doesn't come off the gas til I'm done messing around, or if I wanna gain traction again. Leave it off or put it on....that's the poll of the minute. I don't really care about the "cool" noise it makes, but if it's gonna be good for it...I'll put one on.

If anyone has any good pics of the routing of all the pipes, I really could use some good ideas, as I'm going to fab in an aftermarket intercooler and fab my own tubes out of aluminum and TIG them together. Any tips would be greatly appriciated.

 

alright i can tackle these

the procharger elbow has the same thing, the idea behind it is that it channels the incoming air to each of the throttle body blades equally. less air turbulence, not sure how much of a performance gain but prob helps a little.


well the blow off valve isnt just for the noise it actually serves a purpose. when the car is idling the blow off valve is open releasing boost pressure,when it starts to sense boost pressure, via a vacuum source it closes the valve and boost pressure begins to build and depending on your setup either vents the air back to the inlet side or like mine, the inlet side is exposed and it sounds really mean lol. when you here a honda with a bov it sounds like a whistle but when you hear a lt1 with one it sounds tuff. but i would advise against leaving it off, because if the car is idling you dont want it to be building boost pressure.



i have some pics of my procharger setup, it is different than a vortech obviously, but it can give you a general idea. when i dig them up i will post.

hope that helps

Larry

 

I know it's just not noise, and what it's purpose is...however, just wasn't sure if it was worth while putting on an automatic...it's not like there is gonna be a problem with boost built up inbetween shifts because your foot never comes off the boards. Maybe it would be easier on your transmission if when you shifted you weren't under full boost? Where can you stuff this thing? Room is gonna be tight already as it is.

Another thing I'm concerned about is the inlet piping. They give you this 90 degree plastic elbow and something that I wouldn't even consider using on my dryer. I wanna hard pipe it in...I've heard that's rather important, but the routing might be bit tricky as the headers are right there. I do have the BMR K-member, hopefully that cleared up enough room to maybe fab up a good intake system for it. Like I said the more ideas I have to sort from, the better the chances the install will come out perfect on the first attempt.

 

Alot of people either fab up a hard intake tube, or they search for and shell out a ton of cash for a Brad Brand tube. They're not a good design in my opinion, too hard to work with, but they do work. I had my pipe fabbed up in two pieces so it can be removed easily. They just joined together with a simple silicone connector and some clamps.

 

It's pretty easy to clear a 180 deg inlet bend on the vortech unit if you're running an tubular k-member.

I couldnt see much use for the divider in the alum elbow (it doesnt extend all the way to the TB anyway), so I cut it out with a sawzall, then cleaned it up and smoothed it out with a die grinder. That allowed my to install the alky nozzle in the center of the elbow, without having to put it to close to the TB.

You dont need an actual BOV, but you do need to run a Bypass Valve, so you can bypass the addition air idle and at part/light throttle conditions.

 

It's kinda nice to have a BOV when you're at the end of the track and the car is pulling 6500 going through the lights and you slam the throttle shut and there is somewhere to release the air to, hell it's got to go somewhere and it could / will cause issues if left alone to backup against the impeller.

I'm running a Pro Charger but if you want to take a look at how my setup is routed I've got pics on my site www.geocities.com/marc94z/intercooler.html

I fabbed up a solid intake tube as well using some tubing from www.mandrelbending.com go to my main page and there is a link the the 4 inch inlet tube

I see you're from Mass so I'll give you a friendly FYI.....avoid Quest Racing in Worcester at all costs....aka I'd rather throw some lighter fluid on my Z and follow that up with a match before I'd let them work on it again

Uncle Marc

EDIT, Hell I kinda like the way that sounds, time to updat the sig

 

Is there any problem with running aluminum tubing instead of steel? I can TIG weld pretty well, and my girl friend works in the office of a place that does powdercoating...so after I sand my welds down a touch, she's gonna have them all powdercoated silver. Thanx for the pics Marc...good concept, however I wanna find a way where I have no flexible tubing in the piping at all. I don't really trust that stuff. Call me paranoid, but I don't want something flying up from the road hacking it open, and me not realize it til I have half of the Sahara desert sandblasting my valves and rings. This is a street car....not a drag car. It might see the track once or twice.

At work today I hacked out the divider in the Vortech elbow, did a little sanding with the flapper wheel, and it cleaned up nicely. I don't think that divider would have done all that much considering I have a monoblade tb now anyway.

Anyone have a good recommendation on an aftermarket intercooler that fits pretty well where the stock bumper support was? Do you need to fabricate anything around it to act as the plastic/steel support did, or will the bumper stay put and look normal without it? I'm shooting for 625 rwhp...so it's gonna have to flow. Any advantages to one with the inlet and outlet on one side? Do they even make one like that?

What's the best place for the MAF? After the intercooler, or in the inlet piping? I've heard both.....let ur opinion fly....

Thanx for the help....I hate doing something twice so ur help hopefully will make it come out pimp the first time.

 

Regarding the maf location, put it near the t-body where it was originally. If any hoses blow off, the motor will still run and you won't be stranded. I did this and I still got standed on the freeway at night 'cause the t-body elbow blew off on a cold night where it was making more boost. Also, like you said, something could hit it if you install it on the bottom of the car or it could get wet.

I put the vortech aftercooler on my car and modified all the piping to put the maf near the t-body. Also installed a blue race bypass valve with a 1.5" outlet from the inlet piping. The only downside to this is the idle will not be as smooth as if you installed the maf where vortech wants it, down near the air cleaner. Apparently the turbulence of the air going thru the bypass affects the maf.

 

Do I need to install the FMU and the T-Rex booster pump as well? I have the Racetronix fuel pump and upgrade harness that connects directly to the alternator. I am planning on running low impedence injectors and I have LT1 edit/laptop....so as soon as it starts and I break the motor in a bit in the garage, it's going right over to NEdyno to get tuned properly. I also have the Aeromotive FP Regulator, so I think I should have enough fuel control that LT1 edit can handle the rest. Am I wrong?

 

Sounds like a plan. The lines should become the limiting factor before that pump does. Also, I'm going to assume you're using an Acceleronics box to run the low imp. injectors.

http://www.acceleronics.com/

 

yea im using that pump right now...no need for an FMU, i only see that as causing more harm than good. and what 97ws6 said about the box to use the low imp injectors.

 

No need for FMU if you're gonna run low Z injectors... I wouldn't run the T-Rex either, since the Racetronix pump I gave you (or more accurately, you swiped from me ) is high pressure, and can definitely support your setup.

 

I thought it was a good trade....you toasted my air ratchet to the point where only the head was left...and I got a fuel pump upgrade kit....and remember...the ziplock bag it came in had smoke damage...that discounts the price

 

That I am...still have to buy it...but it's in the immediate future. What's another 400 bucks added to the grand total?

P.S. Where is that fuel injector sizing calculator that is online?

 

Here's one:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-air-fuel-flow.htm

PS- Sorry about that air ratchet. Don't think the SnapOn guy will take that one back!