Hi, I'm about to do my first LT1 Procharger install & don't know what is needed as far as tuning,inj.maf,etc.The kit is the 8# P1SC w/h 2 core intercooler,the car is a '95 covertible Z.It is basically stock w/h stock injectors & maf,I have done one LS1 install & I had LS1 Edit programmed by a local guy but know VERY LITTLE about the LT1 cars so ANY help is greatly appreciated.Thanks!!!

 

I see alot of people recommend throwing the fmu and going with bigger inj which would need to tuned then. The maf is fine as it is obd1.

 

Thanks for the info!!

 

Interesting question, any other answers out there???

 

Of course, change spark plugs to old style & gap @.035, booster fuel pump, modify cat, 160 thermo, a must is to drill/set screw damper to crankshaft so it won't spin!!!!!

 

Why would the damper spin? It is keyed.

 

LT1's are Not keyed!!!!!
They are pressed on, and will spin.
Do a search on this subject and read the horror stories.

 

You're right. I don't know why I thought that. Is the crank keyed at least or would that have to be machined as well?

 

The LT1 crank has the ablity to put a full keyway in it...the factory one is notched at one end...and extended over the other...that way it can catch the timing gear. I have put a normal keyway in and notched the end of the balancer (where is presses onto the crankshaft). The normal key way still caught the timing gear fine...has survived MANY 6500 rpm shifts without a problem. Not sure if that bit that it catches will be enough to stop the balancer from spinning with a supercharger...hopefully someone else has had this work for them with forced induction. My car will be getting a D1-SC over it's upcoming winter nap...

 

1 remove 3 pulley bolts
2 Using a puller, take balancer off
3 Drill three holes thru balancer hub, tap or helicoil holes for 1/4" allen screws
4 Reinstall hub
5 Insertdrill bit thru hub holes, and nick the crank - so allen screws will set into crank
6 install allen screws
7 no slipage!