1000+ HP and TQ ?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,450
From: Belleville, IL
Just for reference...
Nu-Tek shortblock: $4000
AFR heads & top end: $3000
Tubular front suspension: $900
TH400 and everything to make it work RIGHT: $2300
Chassis/rear suspension mods (incl. 12-bolt): $3300
Fuel system: $2000
Misc. odds & ends and parts that broke: $600
Turbo setup incl. intercooler & manifolds: $3000
10-pt cage and all the safety crap: $1300
I know I've forgotten some stuff too, but that's a good start. Also figure that 90% of the work on the car was done by ME, in my own garage with my own tools being turned by my own hands. If you're gonna go the "drop it off and 2 months later be magically done" route with a shop, times all that by at least 30%.
Nu-Tek shortblock: $4000
AFR heads & top end: $3000
Tubular front suspension: $900
TH400 and everything to make it work RIGHT: $2300
Chassis/rear suspension mods (incl. 12-bolt): $3300
Fuel system: $2000
Misc. odds & ends and parts that broke: $600
Turbo setup incl. intercooler & manifolds: $3000
10-pt cage and all the safety crap: $1300
I know I've forgotten some stuff too, but that's a good start. Also figure that 90% of the work on the car was done by ME, in my own garage with my own tools being turned by my own hands. If you're gonna go the "drop it off and 2 months later be magically done" route with a shop, times all that by at least 30%.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 366
From: austin, TX
Originally posted by Gearhead6s
can anyone tell me if the 5. 7 rods will create too much side load in a 396? would that be a good way to lower the compression?
can anyone tell me if the 5. 7 rods will create too much side load in a 396? would that be a good way to lower the compression?
Registered User
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 1,178
From: Cleveland, WI
Originally posted by mongse_1
If you're gonna go the "drop it off and 2 months later be magically done" route with a shop, times all that by at least 30%.
If you're gonna go the "drop it off and 2 months later be magically done" route with a shop, times all that by at least 30%.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 372
From: Hollywood, FL
i thought that if i used a shorter rod then i would have more room at the top of the piston for a deep dish. with JE -33cc pistons and a 62cc combustion chamber and fel-pro 1047s about what would my comp. ratio be? i want to run the new trick flow heads if i can.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,450
From: Belleville, IL
Originally posted by SMOKNZ
Thats pretty conservative, don't ya think? I'd guess way more. I know in just the fabrication department, I paid probably $200 in parts for my headers, and maybe another 10-15 hrs in fab and weld time. Pay me $65 an hour for my labor and the cost significantly rises!
Thats pretty conservative, don't ya think? I'd guess way more. I know in just the fabrication department, I paid probably $200 in parts for my headers, and maybe another 10-15 hrs in fab and weld time. Pay me $65 an hour for my labor and the cost significantly rises!
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 251
I've been around racing for almost 40 years, and the #1 rule I've learned is that you will save money in the long run by doing it right the first time.
The "1000 hp" question has been asked and answered many times on this and other sites, and it is inconceivable that a reliable 1000hp LS1-type motor can be built for less than $20,000. I obviously know nothing about your car building skills, but my advice is to have one of the proven shops build such a motor for you. But the story doesn't end there, because the rest of the car will have to modified to handle such power.
The "1000 hp" question has been asked and answered many times on this and other sites, and it is inconceivable that a reliable 1000hp LS1-type motor can be built for less than $20,000. I obviously know nothing about your car building skills, but my advice is to have one of the proven shops build such a motor for you. But the story doesn't end there, because the rest of the car will have to modified to handle such power.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
Originally posted by stealth2
I've been around racing for almost 40 years, and the #1 rule I've learned is that you will save money in the long run by doing it right the first time.
The "1000 hp" question has been asked and answered many times on this and other sites, and it is inconceivable that a reliable 1000hp LS1-type motor can be built for less than $20,000. I obviously know nothing about your car building skills, but my advice is to have one of the proven shops build such a motor for you. But the story doesn't end there, because the rest of the car will have to modified to handle such power.
I've been around racing for almost 40 years, and the #1 rule I've learned is that you will save money in the long run by doing it right the first time.
The "1000 hp" question has been asked and answered many times on this and other sites, and it is inconceivable that a reliable 1000hp LS1-type motor can be built for less than $20,000. I obviously know nothing about your car building skills, but my advice is to have one of the proven shops build such a motor for you. But the story doesn't end there, because the rest of the car will have to modified to handle such power.
Good post! Listen to this man.
Rich Krause
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 372
From: Hollywood, FL
Originally posted by stealth2
I've been around racing for almost 40 years, and the #1 rule I've learned is that you will save money in the long run by doing it right the first time.
The "1000 hp" question has been asked and answered many times on this and other sites, and it is inconceivable that a reliable 1000hp LS1-type motor can be built for less than $20,000. I obviously know nothing about your car building skills, but my advice is to have one of the proven shops build such a motor for you. But the story doesn't end there, because the rest of the car will have to modified to handle such power.
I've been around racing for almost 40 years, and the #1 rule I've learned is that you will save money in the long run by doing it right the first time.
The "1000 hp" question has been asked and answered many times on this and other sites, and it is inconceivable that a reliable 1000hp LS1-type motor can be built for less than $20,000. I obviously know nothing about your car building skills, but my advice is to have one of the proven shops build such a motor for you. But the story doesn't end there, because the rest of the car will have to modified to handle such power.
i have said above that i have an LT1 not an LS1 and since there are a few 1000 flywheel HP small blocks in the world i am going to try my best. thank you for again telling me that it will be expensive. and thank you for again telling me that the rest of the car will need another 10 billion thrown at it. i know you guys are trying to tell me all about everything but all i want to know is the best way to get my compression down on a 396ci motor. if that is not possible then should i just go with the 383? i thought that having a 5.7 rod might let my pistions be a little thicker in a 396 to help keep the ring lands intact and possbily get a little more dish in a piston. is that not how it works?
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
The difference in CR between a 383 and a 396 will be ~0.3 if all else remains the same. Is that a significant difference? Depends on the whole combo. I am fond of the 383, for the lower CR and some other reasons. But it's not a big difference either way.
Good luck.
Rich Krause
Good luck.
Rich Krause
Registered User
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 1,178
From: Cleveland, WI
Best way to keep the compression low in a 383 : AFR heads with 78cc combustion chamber, and a set of extreme duty -31cc JE pistons. Don't think there is anything out there with more size than that for our motors.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,450
From: Belleville, IL
Yikes, hope you're not planning on running those 160# squirters on the street much.
As for the rods, if you don't want to run a 5.7" rod, a good comprimise on a 396 would be a 5.875" rod. Plenty of beef on the ring lands.
As for the rods, if you don't want to run a 5.7" rod, a good comprimise on a 396 would be a 5.875" rod. Plenty of beef on the ring lands.