Like the title says.. Headers are too hot to measure right now.. anyone know off the top of there head?

 

Ok.. I'll post a bit more info.

I'm measuring the diameter of the primary slip fit to be around 1.65" (give or take)

Jegs, Summit and Napa online don't seem t have the stepped band clamps in that size. Anyone know where I might be able to get one of these?

 

In my experience, the band clamps WITHOUT a step work better. As you tighten it down, the metal will flex over the joint and form it's own step.

 

I used a Summit SME-240175 T-Bolt Clamp. First, work the joint to get a "snug" fit. (Expander, soft hammer ... whatever's necessary) Then a light coat of Permatex "Ultra Copper" (#101BR) RTV Silcone and it should slip in nicely. I used the T-Clamp and have never had any leakage. I did replace the NyLok nut with a regular ss nut and lock washer because of temperature concerns.

 

Thanks for the input! Stopped by Napa after work tonight and found out the smallest band clamp they carry was 3" (at least in my area)

Guess I'll try the t-bolt clamp. Currently my setup is the same as yours, Ultra Copper RTV, but I have a regular old u-bolt and its leaking out of the lower slot cut in the female portion of the slip fit.

 

Well, at least the driver's side is the easiest to get in and out. I suppose if the U-clamp grooved and distorted it badly you might be able to make a sleeve to slide over the joint using some aluminum flashing. More RTV and multiple t-clamps or hose clamps to seal it. Best of luck with it.

 

If you don't mind taking the header out, which isn't too hard on the driverside, I would just take it to a local welding shop and get it tig welded. I had my macs air tubes cut off and capped plus the slip fit welded for about $20. If that is an option it will definately take care of any leaks that you are trying to seal up.

 

Better make real sure that the welded header can be re-installed. I thought about doing this on my RK sport driver side header but quickly realized it would not go in with the engine in the car.

 

Doable, but screws up the ceramic coating in that area, leaving the potential for rust.. Plus I'd hate to risk them not welding the primary in plane with the header flange and risk a more serious leak..

No matter what I do It will have to wait a week while I vacation in the Adirondacks.