shorty vs long tubes
I dont know about power a whole lots, but I heard LT's deliver more power/troque throughout the entire RPM range. Due to the longer primarys you get mroe exhaust scavaging (which is basically where one exaust impulse, since they fire in odd orders, will suck the next one out) but LT's sound are orgasmic above 2k rpms. They make a stock LT1 sound like it has a cam if you have a cutout and cold start it.
I just did LT's + ORY about 3 weeks ago and would never go back. Don't do all that work just to put shortys in...since they really arn't easier to install at all plus the price diff is negligable. I put both my LT's in from the top of the car...never even had to jack it up.
I just did LT's + ORY about 3 weeks ago and would never go back. Don't do all that work just to put shortys in...since they really arn't easier to install at all plus the price diff is negligable. I put both my LT's in from the top of the car...never even had to jack it up.
We have a good lineup of Kooks brand stuff for you car here if you'd like to take a look:
http://marylandspeed.com/lt1-fbody-1...c-122_136.html
If you have any questions you'd like to ask or anything don't hesitate to ask us!
Well first to weigh in on the OP's question... everyone here will tell you long tubes, and either pacesetter (best price) or kooks (best stainless header but pricey) depending on your bankroll. I've been saving for kooks for a while now because I want to do it once and have them forever with no rust.
Now for the thread-jack:
In from the top for both sides? What all did you have to take off to get them both in from the top? I've been putting off doing it myself because I'm not sure how to get the car high enough up in the air, and jacking up the engine and all that. Do you have any pics?
Now for the thread-jack:
I just did LT's + ORY about 3 weeks ago and would never go back. Don't do all that work just to put shortys in...since they really arn't easier to install at all plus the price diff is negligable. I put both my LT's in from the top of the car...never even had to jack it up.
Well first to weigh in on the OP's question... everyone here will tell you long tubes, and either pacesetter (best price) or kooks (best stainless header but pricey) depending on your bankroll. I've been saving for kooks for a while now because I want to do it once and have them forever with no rust.
Now for the thread-jack:
In from the top for both sides? What all did you have to take off to get them both in from the top? I've been putting off doing it myself because I'm not sure how to get the car high enough up in the air, and jacking up the engine and all that. Do you have any pics?
Now for the thread-jack:
In from the top for both sides? What all did you have to take off to get them both in from the top? I've been putting off doing it myself because I'm not sure how to get the car high enough up in the air, and jacking up the engine and all that. Do you have any pics?
On the drivers side I pretty much just had to remove the steering arm and it basically fell right in from the top..I cant really remember but some hammer usage may have been done.
All in all everything went in just fine from the top because I didnt care about the paint on the headers...it all burns off anyways. So if you have coated headers and dont want them scratched the **** up I suggest you may have to do the passengers side from the bottom...I just didnt want to jack my car up that high.
I also did not need to jack the motor up or anything during the process.
I believe I got all my spark plugs in from the top except the one closest to the firewall on each side of the engine.
I traded a BBK 52 tb(which was a poor mod) for my Mac mids and am amazed how much plug access improved,great fit,power increased,and the fact the air pump being eliminated also helped.This deal as you said was just too good to pass on.
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drptop70ss
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May 4, 2015 08:22 PM



.. cause getting spark plugs from up top isnt the easiest thing on theses
