sabresfan

Alright so I installed a set of used FLP longtubes and I have a few lingering questions about a few things.

1) EGR delete - The headers came with the EGR hookup welded shut. In order to block off the EGR we took a bolt and wedged it in the tube that hooked up to the manifolds. Is this okay or should I do the full EGR delete with the kit? I don't really know what the difference is from what we did.

2) A.I.R hookups - the headers had the wrong fittings for the smog pipes (wrong size thread) so we just left them not hooked up, basically blowing air into the engine bay instead of the tops of the headers. Got it to pass inspection this way. Should i just go ahead and delete the AIR or get the right fittings? And is it okay to leave it not hooked up like this for the time being?

I did free scan and the only code it threw was code 63, (no EGR or A.I.R codes) and I've already got a new o2 sensor and proper wire extenders on the way.


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I just want my car running 100% with no potential for future problems with the above mentioned situations

Injuneer

You can buy a single block-off plate for the back of the manifold, where the corrugated riser tube connects, or you could even make one out of scrap metal. Would look a lot better and probably seal a lot better than your ghetto solution. If you delete the EGR valve, you will need a block-off plate for that hole. What did you do about the EGR vacuum solenoid and the vacuum lines?

The AIR pump only runs for a couple minutes at startup. All you have to do is unplug the harness connector, and the pump won't run. I would pull the air supply hose off that runs from the air intake duct to the AIR pump, and put a 5/8" vacuum cap on the nipple on the air intake duct, so there's no chance you are pulling unfiltered, hot air into the air duct.

In OBD-1 you will not get a code for deleting the AIR pump, as long as there is a good fuse in the circuit. There is no check for actual AIR flow like there is in OBD-II. You usually do not get DTC 32 for no EGR flow, because the diagnostic is not very sensitive, but it is possible a code will pop up after the car is actually run on the very specific and limited conditions where the diagnostic can be run. If you unhook the EGR vacuum solenoid, you will get DTC 27, unless you put a resistor across the harness connector pins.

Hopefully the AIR connections on the headers are now fully plugged and sealed.

sabresfan

bought some block of plates so what exactly am i remvoing and whats staying?



what do i do with the vacuum feed, EGR solenoid, & EGR valve. i know the exhaust feed valve gets blocked off with a plate but is that all i do?

Injuneer

You don't have to delete anything except the corrugated riser tube. A single blocking plate effectively seals the system. As indicated above, if you remove the EGR valve, you have to use a plate to block off the hole in the manifold.

If you choose to delete the vacuum system, unhook both the vacuum lines, and plug the nipple on the intake manifold with a vacuum cap. If you delete the EGR solenoid, you have to put a resistor across the pins in the harness connector, or have the codes programmed out of the PCM.

sabresfan

so essentially my "ghetto" solution esseantially seals the system. but you asked me what i did with the vaccum lines and the solenoid.. but its fine if it stays on the car, right?

and if i choose to remove the egr valve i need to plug the vaccum line that lead into it right?

sabresfan

ok here's what im asking, im going to block off and remove the EGR valve, and the EGR exhaust gas feed pipe, which vacuum hoses do i plug up. i circled them...

Injuneer

Hard to believe you can't understand it the way I already explained it.

What part of this is unclear..... THERE ARE TWO VACUUM LINES IN THE PHOTO. REMOVE BOTH VACUUM LINES. PUT A VACUUM CAP ON THE NIPPLE ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD TO SEAL IT. DONE.

sabresfan

I just wanted to make sure i was doing it right because ive never touched anything on the egr and its not really easy to get to and look at for myself. and all the searching ive done, no ones really clear about removing the vacum lines and what size vacum cap you need to plug the nipple, but i get it now. just wanted to make sure i was doing it right