Positioning a Cutout
I installed a 3 1/2" QTP before the kick over the axle. It really helped (97ss 383 - D1), and, I can control some of the noise with open modulation electric switch. I did install a turn down which helps to minimize the vibration and fumes/ heat. Also, I installed a heat shield on the floor pan above it. It was a custom install by myself with purchase of the Y and cutout from QTP. I run it after twin random bullit cats. Most people like the sound. B.
I installed a 3 1/2" QTP before the kick over the axle. It really helped (97ss 383 - D1), and, I can control some of the noise with open modulation electric switch. I did install a turn down which helps to minimize the vibration and fumes/ heat. Also, I installed a heat shield on the floor pan above it. It was a custom install by myself with purchase of the Y and cutout from QTP. I run it after twin random bullit cats. Most people like the sound. B.
do you have cats and headers?
If back pressure is not needed why is my buddys gto with dual cutouts in place of the pre cats is such a dog under 4k? Its so slow until you reach the upper rpms, mine on the other hand has it right after the cat. Which provides some back pressure and has no loss low end.
A race built drag motor is much different than a mildy modded f body. Were talking about a stock car here, not a 8 second one. They have different needs.
A race built drag motor is much different than a mildy modded f body. Were talking about a stock car here, not a 8 second one. They have different needs.
Keyword "RACECAR" 90% of us on here don't own one.
Maybe i should of just posted this in the first thread before it started getting heated. Im on a budget and i want to get this car on the road in the spring... i dont have the money to do headers and or full catback exhaust this year. I have a cut out i can weld into place and use it while i wait till the following year to go nuts and put in some lt's/good flowing catback. So for under a 100 bucks i can get a cutout put in place after the cat and act as a glorified slp lm or open borla and not pay out my ***.
See where im coming from... im not worried about performance im concentrated on sound quality cheap easy fix
See where im coming from... im not worried about performance im concentrated on sound quality cheap easy fix
put it in after the cat. It will also be easy to get to when your opening and closing it.
If you have some extra money you should get a high flow cat. I know carsound and magnaflows are $75 or less on ebay and should outflow one. Especially if your is clogged up. I bought a magnaflow cuz I thought my was not flowing well, man was i right. But it had 117k on it, so if yours is old i would consider one. Your install cost will go up by like $10 since your already working right there.
If you have some extra money you should get a high flow cat. I know carsound and magnaflows are $75 or less on ebay and should outflow one. Especially if your is clogged up. I bought a magnaflow cuz I thought my was not flowing well, man was i right. But it had 117k on it, so if yours is old i would consider one. Your install cost will go up by like $10 since your already working right there.
just installed mine this sat. Love it heres some quick pix and vids to give you and idea. Mine was mounted about 10"s before curving over rear axle. This allowed me to tuck motor in the little "nock"> I bought mine to mimic the sound of a borrowed Loud Mouth system. I love it wouldn't trade what i have now. I'm running shorties, bolt in cat delete QTP electric cut out, into flow master. Heres some pix to help choose and give idea on sound.
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Picture027.flv test run today dec 31 2007. at 2 min mark i open and close it. Quick squirt 1st to second shift at 4000
return run took it up to 5 in second (yes I know it sounded like a stick car, was being goofy)
I did mine for the sound. I love the raspy exhaust at times. i love being able to quiet it down when needed. Well worth the 150 I paid
open and close
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Picture030.flv
mocking it up


http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Picture027.flv test run today dec 31 2007. at 2 min mark i open and close it. Quick squirt 1st to second shift at 4000
return run took it up to 5 in second (yes I know it sounded like a stick car, was being goofy)
I did mine for the sound. I love the raspy exhaust at times. i love being able to quiet it down when needed. Well worth the 150 I paid
open and close
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Picture030.flv
mocking it up


Did the same. An ideal spot for the mod and good road clearance. I welded the mild steel Y. Made a turn-down on the end of the QTP to deflect the exhaust down. Big increase in flow. Really allows the D1 to spin up fast. Also QTP (3 1/2") allows me to modulate the noise level. Very nice video. (97ss 383 - D1) B.
no diagram needed. I grounded mine at a bolt , justuner the passenger side, close to the kick panel. I used a 12 volt source that is only on when key is on. Other than that , it was all it took.
you're gonna love it
you're gonna love it
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