I know this is a common problem. How have you guys solved this?

I thought about just taking a hammer to the section that hits, but that seems a little crude. Plus I dont want to break off the painted / coated part.

 

Find out exactly where it hits and massage that part.

 

I'm seriously thinking about having the structure notched and welded to fix that problem. I don't like the dimple in the y-pipe and with a new exhaust going on there is no way I'm doing that to the pipe coming off the drivers side.

 

I didn't have a problem with my Pacesetter's with the Y-pipe. But now with the true duel x-pipe, it hits the bottom of the car right where the header meets the reducer on the drivers side. I just took off the x-pipe yesterday and I am working on cutting or notching that part of the car with an air cutter, grinder. I thought about welding a piece back in there but not sure if I should or not. Is it really that structural? Espeacialy if since I have subframe connectors. I can try and get some pics if interested.

 

I had the same thought. Not sure how much structure is needed in that spot. Sub frame connectors are on my to-do list. I think that will help if I remove some. Please post up pics when you do it.

Jim

 

Good point about the subframe connectors. I run the Kenny Brown Double Diamond. Their a little heavy, but tie everything together very nicely.

 

Only problem is that I have a convertible. No one makes a 3 point as far as I can tell.

 

Ok, I have cut a notch out and here are a few pics. I am thinking about welding a structural bracket and welding it in place of the notch. This will give my exhaust a ton of clearance.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=102_4308.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=102_4310.jpg

 

that should do the trick!

 

Thanks for the pics. I bought an angle grinder last week and a couple of cut-off wheels. Guess what it's first task will be?

 

STEP AWAY FROM THE TOOLS NOW.
Cutting the unibody structural supports.
Thats going to have an impact on rigidity down the road.

Here are some options for lowering that collector.
1. Lower the rear tranny crossmember using 1/4" square washers. This will tilt the collector down.
2. Elongate the bolt holes in the header flange so that the header tilts a bit more downward.
3. Buy a 3" mandrel bent J-bend. Cut two radius pieces, build a s-pipe (zig zag) that has a tiny drop down to clear the obstruction.
4. Cut three inches off of the end of the header. Angle the piece with a snder a tad and weld it back on so that it tilts down just a bit.
5. Buy better fitting headers.

Better to "hill-jack" the header than the skeleton of your car.

 

I appreciate your suggestions but wouldnt opening up header flange holes cause more issues than just a clearance problem with the Y-Pipe? I cannot imagine that it would seal well if they were tipped a little. Plus I would also assume that they would bolt up tight back into the original spot so the only way to accomplish this is to leave them a little loose????

 

wrd, I appreciate the comments, but my cutting will be followed by some supports and welding. Thanks though.

 

quote from wrd1972:

STEP AWAY FROM THE TOOLS NOW.
Cutting the unibody structural supports.
Thats going to have an impact on rigidity down the road.


I agree with you on that one. I am not suggesting cutting the unibody unless you are going to weld something in it's place like this:


http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=102_4318.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=102_4323.jpg

Then I made a heat shield.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=102_4326.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=102_4331.jpg

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t=102_4334.jpg

I'm not a fabricator but I can cut and weld a little.