Yes they are out for sale now. Have had a few people install them with nothing but minor issues.

 

Yea I posted on that thread trying to clear up some of the stuff people were saying. Same screen name over there too.

 

My LPP headers for the LT1 review.

Got my LPP headers installed and wrapped up. I installed dual Pypes mini cats on the y-pipe too. My motor would pin you at 3.5K RPM with RK Sport mid tubes. With these headers the motor will pin you just under 3K RPM. Low to mid power band improvement with these headers is off the charts awesome. Power up top is better as well not to mention the much wider power band.

I highly recommend these headers but be advised they are not a straight up, just bolt them in, get them on in just one day install. Of course what LT1 headers are? My old RK sports were a big time PITA too. They require some patience, creativity and a lot of foul language to properly install. The quality of the pipes and the welds are top knotch. Even the flange bolt holes line up perfectly and required no tweaking to easily run the bolts in without binding up. The slip fit collectors are totaly leak free too and those 1 7/8 primaries stepped primaries are huge.

Here are the mods I had to do to ensure they went in without clearance issues.
1. Elongate the bolt holes in the firewall and relocate the steering column as far to the driver side as it to better clear the #1 primary.
2. Elongate the slot in the fixed steering shaft to accommodate the lengthened jointed steering shaft.
3. Cut then lengthen the jointed steering shaft by 1/2" then weld it up to properly reach the now relocated steering column.
4. Beat in a 3" area of the sheet metal unibody on the passenger side with a BFH to better clear the #8 primary.
5. Did some grinding on the rear passenger side corner of the k-member to better clear the primaries.
6. Slightly re-bend the right side y-pipe to better align with the catback.

BTW both headers installed through the bottom without having to touch the motor mounts. Plug access is decent with #2 being the hardest one to reach. My headers did have the end hole slots in the flanges which are there to make it easier to install the headers solo. I see no ill benefits from them considering the flanges are very thick. They certainly help out in allowing the header to hang without falling out so you can go up top and run the bolts in. Bolt access is decent too compared to my old mid-tubes. I used stage 8 double hex locking bolts which allows for sockets or Allen wrenches to be used in tricky tight places. Another big plus is the dipstick tube required very little re-bending to allow it to easily be reinstalled once the right side header is attached. You will also need a single 12" O2 extension for the right side O2 sensor.

Certainly did not mind the glitches considering the price. Plus they arrived three days after placing the order in a big *** WELL packed box. Comes with quality gaskets, three band clamps and a mounting bracket assembly too.

Now that I have several hours of driving on them, the shiny silver finish has turned more of a bronze color which is normal for stainless and looks equally good. Also because of modding as described above, I have no pipes banging against stuff or funky vibrations from chassis contact like under the driver side floorboard which is a bit tight. Ground clearance is decent too. I have yet to bang a pipe even over large speed bumps at work.

Once LPP gets these fitment bugs worked out, these will be the most bad *** f-body headers available again considering the price. It is understandable that issues like this can happen when new products are brought to the market and everyone here knows that header install is not an exact science like bolting on a set of heads. I applaud LPP for producing a product that in terms of specs and design is ridiculously cheaper than the closest comparable product.

Again, all things considered.

 

Good to know. Glad there is something cheaper than the kooks.

 

Do you have any pics of your installed headers. Very interested in getting these headers.

 

Installed a set a few days ago.
Minor issues only.

Had to move the steering column towards the left side for the steering shaft to clear No 1 Primary.

A few pics of the assembled 396 before going in:

 

O.k. I have some problems and I could use some insight.

My passenger header is like way off
I have 2 pipes hitting the K-member and I need to close a 1/4" gap.

Anyone have any ideas on how to make these things fit without putting a 3/4" dent in the pipes?
Thnaks!

 

I had to bang in the sheet metal to clear the #8 primary and do some grinding on the k-member to make it fit right. It will go but you have to work it.