Anyone have any pics of this installed or advice on what would make this smooth? want to get an idea of what it should be looking like? I'm still running my cat so either way will help. Thanks.

 

l will tell you that the engine looks dramatically better with a fat set of pipes on it, installing them on the other hand is not difficult but time consuming. I have edelbrock victor sieres LT's, they are stepped from 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 primaries to a 3.5" collector. There was some trouble during installing the bolts due to some welding flak that had to be grinded, and cross member clearance on the drivers side.

 

After reading quite a few posts on header installations It's clear different year/models and the header manufacture make a difference as to what problems you may incur. I installed Pacesetters off road LT's on a '94 Z28 and had a couple of things to cut ,grind down and remove that others did not . And on the other hand I did not have to remove steering linkage that others had to. If you have specifics on year/model/header part number it would help.

 

They aren't cheap but I have Kooks Long Tubes on my car, and they clear everything real well. I'd also use their Y-pipe and cats for the easiest install.

 

Mines a 94 Formula. Their Pace Setters. I wish I knew if I'm gonna get in trouble for not running a cat? Also am I gonna get a code for removing my EGR system? I bought the kind w/out the set up. Hope I don't kick my self for it. What you think?

 

Depends on your state emission requirements. I put Pacesetter longs on my 94 with no real problems.

The biggest thing I can recommend like always is buy band clamps to install the y-pipe to the headers and to the intermediate pipe. It will take some finessing but that way you can secure the pipes and still be able to move them around without any trouble. Once you pull the clamps back off the pipes come right apart just like when you put them together.

No point in spending $500+ on headers and y-pipe just to use $3 crimp clamps that ruin pipe integrity, disrupt flow and make it difficult to take off later...

 

The '94 ODB1 EGR test is almost a joke about 50% of the time you can remove EGR w/o getting a error code, however it's good practice to tune EGR off as the PCM adds up to 5* timing when it activates the solenoid irregardless if it's hooked up or not.
If you are in an emission testing geography that requires sniffer then you may fail w/o the EGR working, you can add a freeflow cat, but it will be relocated not OEM. In some testing areas you can not relocate the cat, they are all different, check locally. What are you going to hook the setup to, the Y-pipe exit on the Pacesetters will be 3" OD (I think it's OD) are you adding a cat-back ? During install, disconnect battery, loosen starter but leave electrical connected, pull alternator, valve covers, water temp sensor on left head (or you will break it.. I did) , and remove plastic shroud covering steering linkage. left header goes in from the top, right from the bottom requiring car to be about 18-20 inches off the ground to angel the header in. You will need to trim the steering linkage plastic shroud to clear the #3 primary when you re-install it and I had to grind about 1/2 inch of extra metal off the A4 transmission bell housing on the right side near the top of the inspection cover. There a a couple of harness wires running down the right wheel well that may touch the #2 and #4 primaries that need to be tied back with plastic ties, even then they only clear the pipes by 1/2-3/4 of an inch, the primaries end up very close to the firewall on the right side. Tips.. get 1- 12' and 1- 24" O2 extensions they save 1 hour of soldering wires, don't tighten the header to head bolts till you make sure the collectors can clear the floor panel on the left side near the fuel lines. Leaving the bolts loose can give you a little wiggle room. I had to go back and drop my transmission/rear engine support bracket 3/8" (shims) to prevent the collector from hitting the floor panel during WOT conditions. Could be just my setup, but something to keep an eye on. The alternative and correct solution would be to oblong the left header bolt holes a little and get more down tilt, rather than tilt the engine down 3/8" at the rear and maybe mess up tranny to driveshaft alignment. Mine is still in specs so I ended up OK. But I was not going back and removing the headers and starting over. Take your time and plan on a couple of days, or one long frustrating one. Don't cut corners and compromise on any clearance issues between wires or header to frame. Burnt wires can cause hard to diagnose problems and headers hitting metal can cause false knock that will pull timing when you need it. I added OTVC wires and cleaned up the bay at the same time so it took longer.

 

This will be very helpful. Thank you