Wonder why this is the case? You mean vs. the auto transmission?

 

It's because automatics have the ability to "pre-load" the drivetrain (unless you're using a trans-brake). With a standard, the clutch is pretty much either "in" or "out" ... like on/off ... yes I know there's an "in between" but that's called slipping and it eats clutches in no time! SO, at the track you barely slip the clutch at all when you launch, and until it engages, the driveline (driveshaft, gears, axles) are all sitting calm with no load on them. All of a sudden you hammer the throttle and dump the clutch at ~5000 RPM and you expect your U-joints and gears to hold up? That's typically when the 10-bolts fail.

Guys with autos always talk about "stalling up" at the line ... I mean, holding the brakes and giving it throttle to ~1500 or ~2000 RPM (or whatever RPM) and then launching from there. In this case, there is load being placed on all the components of the driveline, so the launch is much "softer" for them.

As well, manual SHIFTS are much harsher than automatic shifts are.

 

Just wondering, but has anyone ever put a 14 bolt in their camaro/firebird? Is it even possible? You would need...I think 6, or 8 bolt tires. The ring gear is 10.5" though, that would really get it moving.

 

So what is a fair place to rebuild the differential with all new bearings (even wheel berings) and new ring and pinion (stock ring & pinion)? I was quote $900 at a local diff. shop.

I was told to stay with the stock ring and pinion from GM since they are more quiet. But the stock R&P tolerance is tighter so it makes it harder to setup the gears.

 

You would be much better off getting a 12 bolt. Or, picking up a used rearend at a junkyard much cheaper.