I don't get it. I have BMR boxed SFC, Tubular LCA's, Track Pack (torque arm), 12 bolt, QA-1's. If I roll on the gas and the tires break loose I get some nasty wheel hop. If I break the tires loose fast (higher rpm dump) it will stay smooth. Is it possible that my shocks are adjusted too tight (9 clicks left) (7 clicks right)? What causes wheel hop? It didn't do it stock.

 

In you wonderful list of parts I don't see LCA relocators. If you don't have them, get some. And make sure that your pinion angle is correct.

 

The pinion angle is correct, and the car didn't do it before. I don't see how adding still another part will solve a problem the car didn't used to have. Perhaps a better explination of how the problem occurs, and how suspension parts work together to eliminate this problem would be a better approach. Any other ideas?

 

try dialing out some pinion angle...out to 0 to start would be good. I believe you should be at aroud 3 or 4 stock. That should help the car bite more. I would also take the rear shocks to 0 all the way left...then go to 5 clicks right as a good starting point. I've seen good traction on 9 on the right, 7 on the left with a stock TQ arm. I would definately try to get relocation brackets as they are supposed to help the wheel hop. Just some ideas.

Chris

 

then why did you add the parts in the first place? no kidding it didn't do it when it was stock, i'm guessing you added the parts because you had to plant more power to the ground.......so yes, adding another part, namely the adj lca bracket, will help.....it will change the lca angle to help plant the rear....

 

Headingeast, I bought the parts because they where red, and I liked the Idea of spending $$$ for no reason (valve covers are evidence of it). More over, I had this same set up (minus shocks) last year, and it didn't have this problem. It is a recent development, which is why I don't think adding parts is the solution (not critisizing LCA brackes or their effect/benafit). Thanks to those of you who are actually trying to help, I do apreciate it. I guess I shold re-check the pinion angle, but I am fairly sure I set it to zero. The car has a good 60' (1.49) and does not have this issue at launch, but doing a burn out from a 20 mph roll results in wheel hop. The only changes for this year to the rear set up where the shocks and a the spool . It's possible that I overlooked something, and I am sure it's something stupid (adjustment) or something broken (I'll get under it tonight). Also, I set the pinion angle with the suspension loaded on tall jack stands (the stands are designed to support the car by the tires) I will check BMR's website for the procedure.

 

i'm sorry, i guess the part where you said:

threw me off......
the shocks not being adjusted properly could definetly cause wheel hop, but is it possible that with the spool there's a greater shock to rear than what your previous diff gave? i think if you do a search for "sam strano" on ls1tech.com or go to his website he has some good tips on adjusting the shocks to avoid wheelhop.....

 

you may have done this already but check the air pressure in the rear tires you may need to drop it to 26-22 psi it solved my wheel hop problem