Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

whats wrong?

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 07:13 PM
  #1  
Burnt_Bizcut00's Avatar
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whats wrong?

I dont know much about my rear end and brakes, but i know something is wrong back there. When brake, it feels like a warped rotor when i brake. At first i thought my rotors were warped in the front, so i replaced them with nice cross drilled and slotted ones and a set of new pads. this still didnt fix the problem. It sometimes doesn't surge/wabble when i brake which tells me that it isnt a warped rotor because its not doing it all of the time. i think it might be my alxe or something like that cuz its making a noticable whining noise (which has been there since i bought it...15,000 miles ago). but now its a little louder sometimes... it seems. I shook my rear tire hard trying to figure out if its just a loose tire, but when i shook it really hard, i had play somewhere in the axle and it clunked. i checked the rotors and tires and they are tight. What could this be. bearings somewhere? It also seems out of alignment sometimes and pulls to one side or the other when on uneven ground. Oh and the inside tire's axle also pops when i turn a corner and give it some juice like its slipping. any ideas? thanks for the help!
Old Jan 4, 2007 | 11:09 AM
  #2  
MyShibbyZ28's Avatar
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The whining noise sounds like the gears. If they are not factory then they might make some noise. If they are factory and still make noise, they might not be set up properly. (maybe cause a bearing is letting the axle slip around a little)

The clunking around a corner is probably the posi. It might be wearing out, and slipping which makes the clunk noise.

The wobble from braking might be a bearing problem. Can't honestly say since I have not had to deal with it before. Replacing the bearings might help/fix it.

The pulling on uneven ground is normal. The wide tires tend to follow grooves a lot.
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 01:00 PM
  #3  
Burnt_Bizcut00's Avatar
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the gears are stock. so it looks like a bearings is bad. having not taken one of these apart, where would i need to start to check these? is is farily easy to do by myself with a set of hand tools, or do i need something extra? thanks for the help
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #4  
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From: Goochland, Va.
you can do them yourself, first I would take the caliper and rotor off and pull on the axle....make sure its not broke or a dropped c-clip I have seen this before

pop the cover off the rear see what you got. If you pull the axles out look at it where the brg rides on it...should tell you if it is bad or not
most of the time if an axle brg is bad you will hear it all the time and it will mess up the seal and leak

see if the axle pulls out first
Old Jan 6, 2007 | 10:06 PM
  #5  
Burnt_Bizcut00's Avatar
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ok, thanks for the help guys. i appreciate it.
Old Jan 10, 2007 | 08:11 AM
  #6  
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From: Lake Jordan/Slapout
I have almost all the same issues you do. The whinning is more then likely cause by bad pinion bearings (especially if it does it while decelerating), this can also put strain on your u-joints, and often thow off your pinion angle. That will add to the vibration as they get worse.

About the noise while turning, this is caused often by bad wheel bearings, and damaged seals. The seals go bad and dirt, water get into the bearings and destroy them. The posi could be to blame, but I am willing to bet it isnt behind the noise. Proper lubrication is key in keeping your rear axle healthy too.

To fix my problem, I am installing new gears, and a deluxe install kit which includes everything to completely refresh your rear end. All your carrier bearings, pinion bearings, wheel bearings, seals etc. For a little piece of mind, I am gonna stick a TA Girdle on there too. I will go ahead and replace the brake rotors, and pads fron and rear as well. Because the problem will never get better, and can cause a ton of damage should your rear sieze up I recommend getting it all done at once. Its more practical, and efficent as well. You know how it goes often times you replace a bad part, and it fixes the problem but puts strain on the already worn out parts, so it is just a matter of time before your working on your car again.

I dont know if you have the same issue I have with the brake caliper rubbing the rotor if you dont know I would check that too.

It isn't too expensive for the rear rebuild, and new brakes:

AUTOZONE
DURALAST Rear Rotor $15 x 2rotors: $30.00
Valuecraft Brake Fluid 32oz: $3.59
Costal 75w90 Gear Lube: $2.39qt x 3qt: $7.17
Wheel Bearing Grease $1.99 x 2: $3.98
PDQ U Joint: $10.99

Autozone Total:$55.73

GM LSD Additive: $7.80

SUMMIT
T/A Girdle: $149.95
3.73 Ring and Pinion $139.95
Ratech Rebuild Kit: $122.39
VGXT Graphite metallic Rear Brake Pads: $19.50

Summit Total:$432.42
Handling Charge: $9.95
Summit Order: $442.37

Complete Total: $505.92

My list is a little longer as I said I will be getting cross drilled and slotted front brakes, upgrading my rr's to 1.6's as well as the rest of the valve train. But it is still affordable enough.

Keep us up to date on this, I know there are a good many members who has posted on this exact problem. It would be nice to hear a definative awnser on what it took to fix it.

Last edited by godspeed1976; Jan 10, 2007 at 08:13 AM.
Old Jan 11, 2007 | 01:00 PM
  #7  
godspeed1976's Avatar
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From: Lake Jordan/Slapout
Just learned that the Rear rotors I have listed are not Zinc and will rust, so make sure you step up to the next available rotor its only a few dollars more.
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