Im in the process of getting a 12bolt and beefy driveshaft for my car, at which point im curious if im done upgrading my driveline or not?

My setup is: Spec stage 4 ceramic clutch, M29 6 speed, beefy driveshaft, 12bolt rear, ET Streets/Drags

My setup is making around 400 RWHP N/A, and i plan on running a 50-200 shot of nitrous after my upgrades.

So will this setup beable to take some agressive lauches and shifting at my power level with no problems? Im really hoping to be able to carry the front tires on lauch

 

Well, if you've got a solid clutch, beefed up DS, and a 12-bolt, I guess the next thing would be needing hardened input/output shafts for the tranny.

We busted both U-joints on the driveshaft, cracked the case of the transmission, and bent the output shaft of the T-10 in my Dad's '73.....hard launch on ET Streets w/4.10 gears in the back.....the car never even moved?! Just BANG!

 

Kick *** hope you get it done

 

What power levels does this need to be done at?

 

AFAIK, the T-56 is supposed to be good 'til ~450 HP or something like that? I don't know if there's much difference between a T-56 and your M29 in terms of strength? They just have different gear ratios, isn't that correct?

I guess all I was saying is that if you're looking for a "bullet-proof" drivetrain, then stronger tranny internals are the last step (since you've got everything else covered) but they shouldn't be ignored, because they can get damaged. I know there are guys running into the 9's with 6-speeds, but I also know they've installed a few upgraded parts into the tranny.

FWIW, the motor in our '73 is making "roughly" ~425 HP (flywheel) although that's yet to be dyno proven. Point being, that's all it took to blow apart half our drivetrain!

 

I believe the M29 has the same gearing as the viper transmissions.

I know Rich Krause ran mid 10s with a stock t-56 on a 4100lb car, so i imagine I should be alright.

 

The drivetrain can sustain MUCH higher power levels if there are no sudden shocks to it. All those small clearances can add up to a lot of jerking around if the power is applied to suddenly. Apply power smoothly and your stuff will last longer plus traction will not be quite as hard to attain. That's my thoughts anyway, considering there are some people that can't make the T56 last on their near stock car...

 

If you're running the stock torque arm, I suggest you have some steel washers welded to the outside of the rear holes that bolt to your differential. This will beef up the mounting points.

 

Maybe some hardened wheel studs...Just a thought..

 

Ill be running a spohn frame mounted Torque arm.

Do 12bolts usually come with hardened wheel studs?

 

One small bit of advice. Keep the tires pressure high enough to spin the tires about 1/2 to 1 full revolution on launch and you'll probably break nothing.
Saw Tanners 9 second unbreakable rig break at my home track because it hooked harder than it should have.