Back about 10 weeks ago I had a Vigilante 2800 stall installed in my car. The converter may have locked up for the first day, but after that it no longer locked up. I was told it was either the brake switch, lock-up solenoid or lock-up valve. I assume it is not the brake switch since my brake lights work correctly. Is that a safe assumption? So I ordered a new transmission. Well, 8 weeks later, I have no new transmission and I am planning a cross country trip on Monday. So I decide to take it to a transmission shop and have them check the tranny to find a problem. They tell me they cannot find a problem, that with any performance upgrade I should need to change the TCM. I've never heard of this. Needless to say, 10 weeks later I still have no transmission I can cross the country with, and I'm out of time. Has anybody else had this problem, or am I just the unlucky one? Could it possibly be the converter itself that is failing to lock-up?

HELP! anyone?

 

It's possible it's the converter but I find it hard to believe that's your problem. I have heard of this issue before but I'm not sure what the solutions are. I recommend doing a search. With your OBDII you shouldn't have any issues with a reasonable stall like that(shouldn't at all actually). You don't need to do anything to the PCM when installing a converter that's relatively mild like this. Try talking to Ion(madwolf) on here and see what he thinks though. Was it a new converter? If so did you go through the recommended lockup and unlock procedures before getting on it? If not that might be the problem as well. Good luck.

 

Well, by a miracle my transmission showed up today. It will be installed tomorrow so I will know for sure whether or not it is the converter. I am almost very sure it isn't the problem. This morning I changed the lock-up solenoid and it made no difference. The converter was brand new. As far as following the recommended break in procedure, I think I was close to what it called for, but not exact. Would not following the procedure exaclty have screwed up the lock-up clutch? Geeze I hope that isn't it. This is my last hope, if the new transmission doesn't cure the problem, my trip will be null and void. I'll post tomorrow with the results.

 

Make sure you remove the checkball & capsule in the input shaft (required on 9.5" lockup torque converters). There should also be a seal on the input shaft. There is no breakin period on the "standard" single disc lockup. There is however a breakin period on the multi-disc setup.

 

Well, if you're wondering if the new tranny solved the problem, the answer is.... it doesn't effin work. No movement in any gears, and when the tranny is overfilled, reverse gets the tires to move slowly forward, and forward makes the tires go into reverse. Before I start bitching and complaining and pointing fingers about having to wait 8 weeks for a transmission that doesn't work, I'm going to allow the builders to explain themselves.

I'll have to ask if the checkball and capsule were removed. I'll probably know tomorrow. It is a single disc lock-up, so I guess I'm okay there, because I did not follow the multi-disc lock-up breakin instructions.

Precision Industries painted their converters with a special paint. Mine has turned brown. Is that good, bad, normal? I did overheat the transmission when I was travelling on the highway going uphill, but it didn't seem to hurt the converter, just broke down the fluid.

Thinking that 8 weeks was enough time for me to prepare my cross country trip was wrong. Now my vacation has been ruined.

 

If you want to be sure about the lockup working, you could send the TC back to P.I. That color of the TC turning brown does indicate that it got hot. Have you checked to see if there is fluid coming back to the transmission from the cooler? Top line is the return. Check to see that there is no restriction.

 

Okay, I'll check that tomorrow too, and update.

 

Well, I talked to the guy who installed my converter, and he did not remove the check ball. The instructions claimed to remove it only as an option on the multi-disc setup, so I didn't think it was necessary. I'll get him to do it, check the o-ring, check the cooler lines and re-install my old transmission. There was really nothing wrong with it other than it not locking up. If I can get it to lock up, I'll just return the "new" transmission, and save myself $2000.00, although I wanted the piece of mind of a tougher tranny.

 

Well, the trans company authorized us to drop the pan. My cooling lines were not kinked, but there was no fluid running through them when they were disconnected. There are metal shavings in the pan, and the tech feels the trans was installed incorrectly. The installer adamantly denies that. They told me to pull the trans and send it back. Looks like I'm going to have a battle on my hands.

 

I'm curious about this check ball thing. I don't remember doing anything like that when installing my converter?

 

The check ball in the end of the input shaft is there to help regulate the fluid pressure to the lock-up clutch, I believe. Removing it creates a firmer/harsher lock-up. I have also heard, and maybe this is only on inferior converters, that it can cause problems with the lock-up like lots of chatter or refusing to lock-up.