I found out this is 99% what is wrong with my 4L60E

i have sticking valve body check *****. Does anyone have the low down on these things?
Could a flush fix it? Or do I have to take it to a shop and have them drop the valve body?

 

The only time a steel checkball will get "stuck" in the valve body plate is when it has struck the valve body plate hole so hard & often that it is enlarging the hole, so that at some point it will get stuck in the valve body plate, which in turn can ruin the transmission. That is why I use the Torlon checkballs so as to prevent this from happening.

 

so in other words im going to need a valve body plate and check *****?


and why does this happen?


is it safe to drive the car?? if i never leave OD I wouldn't even know anything is wrong.

 

What makes you think you are having sticking checkballs? How is the transmission acting?

 

this is the thread i described the problem in

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=474427


i took it to a tranny shop and the guy said it sounds like check *****.

 

This is most likely the overrun assembly causing the problem. It could be a broken overrun hub, input sprag rolled over, and/or the overrun clutches are gone. It is in this area that is the problem, not the checkballs.

 

crapola!!! guess that means new transmission time


thanks for the input!


and ehhh how much Mr.Pro built :-) ?

 

HEY, do you think its safe to keep driving it for another month or so as long as i just take it easy?

 

I wouldn't exactly say it's time for a new transmission.

The underside of the transmission, where the checkballs are located within the valve body is accessable from underneath the car, by pulling the pan off. If you want, pull off the pan, then pull off the valve body. I can't remember, but you might have to pull off one of the other accumulators, but it's not an issue. As long as you put everything back the way it went in, you'll be alright.

You will have to pull down your trans filter (broad flat piece, might as well replace it if you are under there, make sure an o-ring comes with it when you take it out, sometimes this can get stuck), and a return tube, which is silver and stretches across the length of the underside of the trans pan (this just pulls right out). One more thing that I think needs to come out is the metal flat spring that controlls the valve that the shifter shifts when you go through the gears (this is the peice at the right side, next to the yellow number 22, being held in by two bolts).

When you pull off the valve body, pull it off level and lay it on the ground, or else the check ***** will roll out, you dont want to lose them. Be careful, the valve body is heavier than you would imagine. From there you can inspect any damage to the valve body plate. Also, there is a spring that will come out with the valve body (mine was broken, see pic), see if yours is in good shape, and if not, replace it. A trans shop should have this spring.



I would also pull off the one accumulator, this one (the silver cylinder at top right) and check to see if the springs inside are in good shape.)


Transmission work in the pan area is not a big deal like most would think. I did my shift kit in about 6 man hours from start to finish. Just take LOTS and LOTS of pictures, and draw diagrams of parts as you pull them out, so they go back in like you pulled them out. I would check all of this before you shell out 800$ at a trans shop.

 

well i still havn't nailed this problem down! and the car is still moving like normal............sort of normal.


anyone else care to toss in their .2?

 

This sounds like the lugs have broken off the over-run hub of the input sprag, or your over-run clutches are wasted. Unfortunately either of these will require transmission removal. If you decide to have it rebuilt, you can check out our web site.
We offer the best built/strongest/longest lasting 4L60E's on the planet. and we're also the most reasonably priced. We're offering $100 discount on our "Race" and "Pro Race" builde during the month od December.
http://www.geocities.com/cahallperfo...l60ebuild.html

Thanks,
Frank
CPT