He guys I'm about to can the old T-56 for a turbo 350. I have been told a few of you guys have done this already. What was the results with the turbo 350 in the new camaros? Any thing to be aware of while doing this? What size converter did you guys use? What shifter do you guys use? Anything would be helpful.

Tim

 

Unless you making alot of power go with a 700R4 or 4L60E and keep the OD. Unless you just want a th350. but try a search and you will find alot of info on this subject.

There are alot of guys running in the low 11's and a few dipping or teddering in the 10's on the 4L60E's

 

I swapped from my broken T56 to a TH350 in 2000.
Here's the webpage I put up about it
http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/m6_to_th350_swap.htm
Bear in mind, if you have a non stock attachment point for the front of the torque arm, you'll need to fabricate a tranny mount. The depicted Torque Arm adapter kit on my webpage takes care of the issue. Two friends of mine have swapped to TH350's but b$tched to me that the tranny mount wouldn't line up to the X Member. I was perplexed for several emails of questions till it was revealed that they had Sphon Torque Arms and , unbeknowst to me, didn't purchase the Torque Arm conversion kit because they didn't think it did anything other that attach the stock torque arm.
Dave

 

DirtyDaveW what did you do about the speedo?Nice job on the shifter.I can under stand why some would like to go with the th350 or 400's I think this is my last try with the 4L60E IMO if you run in the 12's a 4L60E will suit you fine but when you start getting into the 11's and dont live close to OD Builder than its could be a better choice.

 

I ordered two parts from dakota digital that should be here tomorrow. E mail me and ill give you the details about it. And p.s. i used Dirty Daves swap guide to do mine and it is awsome. Thank you very much for putting it up Dave. i am using a spohn torque arm and modifying my stock a4 crossmember (which you can get very cheap at a dealer, youd be suprised) Cause i thought the hurst swap kit was cheesy. Hope this helps. See me later, prorac1

 

I get the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) pulses from the drivers side ABS reluctor. On '96 and '97 cars, the VSS and the ABS reference voltage is 5.5 volts(or thereabouts) so all I did was to take the harness that would've gone to the real VSS on the T56 and piggyback the two wires onto the ABS's two wires. Positive on positive, negative on negative. Then all I had to do was reflash my PCM to think I had 2.85 gears. The speedo works great. The only issue with this setup is that the ABS computer knows somethings 'weird' about the piggybacked wires being on the circuit and so shines the ABS INOP light on your dash. Solution to that is to put a UNITY GAIN circuit (About 5 bux worth of radio shack components) in the negative connection between the VSS negative wire and the ABS negative. Simply buy a 741 Op Amp chip. No other resistors/capacitors/diodes/etc are needed. Wire it up according to the instructions here...
http://taekwondoplus.org/z28/unitygain.htm
Be aware, it has a huge poor quality picture that my lazy a$$ has YET to fix.
'94 and '95 cars have 12 volts at the ABS, which is too much to simply piggyback. I think a series of Radio Shack IN0914 diodes would step down the voltage to the acceptable 5.5 volts.

 

Heres the catch though Dave. With his car being a 95 its kinda a freak. Its got obdII components mixed with obdI stuff. Cause on the obd2 you can piggy back into the abs stuff. But on mine (obd 1) you cant do that cause all the abs comes from the one speed sensor in the tranny. Hmmmmmmmm, quite the delema, but let me know what one you need to use, ive always wondered this on a 95. Hope this helps, prorac1

 

Great Web site!!!!
I didn't Know that someone made the mounting brackets for the torque arm and tranny.
Dirty Dave W what rearend are you running in your car. Is it stock or a beefier rearend? Those are so impressive 1/4 mile times. What all have you done to the engine?

 

I had the stock 3:42's that came in the car in 96 till last spring. The MTI Spring Shootout at San Antonio Raceway park finally did them in. Three broken ring gear teeth. I now have a temp solution using a friends Bonneville Salt Flat special 2:73's
My setup on the day of the 12.0 and 11.1 was my original crank in .030 overbore (355) block, topped by Eagle 6" rods and J&E flat top forged pistons, Impalla SS head gaskets (.029 compressed height), stock 48mm TB, CC 224/236 XE cam, GMHPP 1.6 ratio roller rockers, Hooker Long Tube headers, MMC Y Pipe, Borla XR1 muffler, ET Streets, Stock wheels at all four corners, NX kit jetted to 100 shot on the 11.1 pass.
This is my 4th pass (out of 5) on a 150 shot at the SBSO. Leaving on the bottle out of the hole. Ring gear died on the way home after this. I had 28" Hoosiers on this day.
http://www.minivette.com/SBSO/images/DSCF0110.jpg

 

I have done right now:
355 block
Forged crank, forged pistons
stock connecting rods
Cam 220/230 at .050 535 lift with 1.6 ratio 112 LSA
Heads ported and polished
Intake ported and polished to match heads
58mm TB
Isky double springs 135# seat pressure good up to .550 lift
Comp cam retainers and Keepers
Crane 1:6 Ratio Roller Rockers
Hooker Super comps With Y pipe
With A T-56
Best Time:
13.22 1/4mile at 107.11mph 60' time 1.89
using a old set of ET Streets
Dyno# 302.3 RWHP at 5400rpms
327.7 RWT at 4100 rpms
engine completely died at 5900 rpms
I just firgue I would hove better times and Dyno #.
I hope the turbo 350 with 2700-3000 stall would run good

 

Yes. After looking at your setup, it does seem like somethings missing. I don't see any reference to any PCM tuning, but I'm sure you've had some done, right? Have you scan logged the car during driving/racing to see what's going on? What injectors do you have? My friend (Stacey Tagen) put a set of ported LT1 castings (LT4 sized stainless valves) and an LT4 HOT cam kit on his car and it was running out of injector (100% duty cycle) with the stock 24 pounders. He's since bought a used set of SVO 30# so that's fixed. He dyno'd at 355'ish this past June at MTI with the 24# inj. Had huge dips in power up high. I'm wondering if you're having knock retard issues as well.

 

The PCM is still running stock program.. Also You hit the nail on the head. The Dyno sheet show at the 300 RWT and up a sin wave with highs and lows and the same for the horse power 260RWHP and up. I really did not know if bigger injecters would make that much difference. Sound like the next mod. The injectors that are on there are stock and have 128,000 miles on them. Thanks for the feeback.

Tim