Torque Converters, etc. . .
I'm looking to quicken my '02 Z Vert Auto off the line. Other than changing the gear ratio, is a TC the next best option? I'm not looking for a HP boost; I just want to use what I have under the hood earlier, as in 0-60, etc.
How much is involved in getting a TC installed, and is it worth what I want to achieve?
Any and all advice is welcomed. Thanks!
How much is involved in getting a TC installed, and is it worth what I want to achieve?
Any and all advice is welcomed. Thanks!
Re: Torque Converters, etc. . .
Thanks! How is the 3500 stall for a daily driver. Too loose? The Z is not my DD, but I'm not looking for drag applications either. I want it to move on the road immediately, so will this eat my tires if it's just a weekend car? The 2.73 feels slow, so that's why I'm asking about the stall. Thanks again!~
Re: Torque Converters, etc. . .
Originally Posted by Knowklew
how are torque converters in the winter/snow?
Re: Torque Converters, etc. . .
Originally Posted by hitdr9
Thanks! How is the 3500 stall for a daily driver. Too loose? The Z is not my DD, but I'm not looking for drag applications either. I want it to move on the road immediately, so will this eat my tires if it's just a weekend car? The 2.73 feels slow, so that's why I'm asking about the stall. Thanks again!~
Re: Torque Converters, etc. . .
Make sure when you change the torque converter, you remove the checkball capsule from the end of the input shaft & replace the "O" ring. Your TC installation instructions should tell you this.
Re: Torque Converters, etc. . .
Originally Posted by robvas
TCI 3500 Stall
It's worth every penny. You can do it yourself, or any tranny shop will do it for a reasonable fee. It's basically removing and re-installing the transmission.
Jack the car up, put it on stands, remove your driveshaft, unbolt the bellhousing of the transmission from the engine, put some blocks under your oil pan so the engine doesn't tip back and smash stuff on the firewall, remove the dipstick, remove the shifter cable, remove the tranmission fluid lines that go to the radiator, remove the dust cover from the trans, unbolt the stock converter, remove the crossmember, slide the transmission out, remove the stock converter, pour a quart of fluid into the new converter, stick it back in the trans (make sure you get it in ALL the way), and reverse what you've done so far. Installing a tranny cooler is cheap and recommended when you do this.
It's worth every penny. You can do it yourself, or any tranny shop will do it for a reasonable fee. It's basically removing and re-installing the transmission.
Jack the car up, put it on stands, remove your driveshaft, unbolt the bellhousing of the transmission from the engine, put some blocks under your oil pan so the engine doesn't tip back and smash stuff on the firewall, remove the dipstick, remove the shifter cable, remove the tranmission fluid lines that go to the radiator, remove the dust cover from the trans, unbolt the stock converter, remove the crossmember, slide the transmission out, remove the stock converter, pour a quart of fluid into the new converter, stick it back in the trans (make sure you get it in ALL the way), and reverse what you've done so far. Installing a tranny cooler is cheap and recommended when you do this.
Ammendments for LS1 cars:
no dust cover you need to pull the starter to access converter bolts.
Dip stick is bolted to the back of the head not the bell housing.
Got to pull the torque arm mount. Some pull the TA but it's not necessary.
Rear O2 wire clips are bolted to the trans
There's a vent hose on top of the trans
There's a big wiring harness that needs to be unhooked also
Re: Torque Converters, etc. . .
Originally Posted by Pro Built Automatics
Make sure when you change the torque converter, you remove the checkball capsule from the end of the input shaft & replace the "O" ring. Your TC installation instructions should tell you this.
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