Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

torque converter for daily driving???

Old Apr 4, 2004 | 11:22 PM
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torque converter for daily driving???

my 94 z28 is my daily driver however i wanted to get a torque converter to get a little more out of the automatic. what would be a good stall rating to use on a daily driver? im deffinently getting a lock up converter, but i dont really see anything for sale below 3000 rpms stall. i think thats a bit high for a DD.

i wont be changing cams at all, not even a hot cam, about the best i will be doing in terms of valvetrain mods is 1.6 RRs. based on the stock cam w/ 1.6 RRs and the fact that its a DD what would be a good stall rating? thanks for the help.
Old Apr 4, 2004 | 11:51 PM
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ttt
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 01:33 AM
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2800 vigilante, drives great, is barely noticeable when driving, well until you get on it

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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 01:36 AM
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3000 midwest, 80 miles/day and I love it.
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 02:06 AM
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I have a vigi 3200, I was driving 50 miles a day. Freeway its fine, just like stock. It'll take you a week to learn how to drive it again. Then you learn how much gas to give it and its fine. I can still drive around town only pulling maybe 2500 rpms leaving lights.
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 04:50 AM
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if you intend on not ever getting a bigger cam I would go with nothing more than 2800 stall. more than that will be harsh on the street. Large convertors make the throttle response pretty bad, very mushy feeling, unless of course you floor it everwhere you go. To make it stall of a light slightly lower rpm is very hard as you must leave with the slightest throttle, even then it still stalls very near to its intended range. The reason I say is the bigger you go the more gas mileage it will suck out of your car, cause you must always leave at a high rpm. THe pro's are much better 1/4 times, you can gain anywhere from 2-5 tenths. Also know that weight, gearing, and torque all play a part at where it stalls at, the higher the torque rating the higher the stall. I would do a search a find out everything you can before buying
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 03:16 PM
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these may sound like beginer questions but...

if im leaving a light, like during normal street driving, do i have to hold the brake and stall it all the way up to 2800 ( or whatever ) then i can gas it? or will it rev until 2800 then just snap into gear? how does it react when i push the gas lightly. because i never street race.

also, is it gonna make it harder to get traction from a dead stop? thanks.
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 08:00 PM
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Old Apr 5, 2004 | 08:35 PM
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i have a 3000 vig and i love it.
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 10:22 PM
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MY 2800 stall is almost like stock, the car still tries to roll forward at stoplights, it just takes a little more gas to get it going. i can only brake torque my car to 2000 rpms before the tires start to spin, after a while you forget its there, well until you floor it

jesse
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 10:41 PM
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Vig 3600 since 1996...5 tenths, daily driven, nuff said...best $$$ you'll ever spend...
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 11:23 PM
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You don't have to hold the brake and stall the converter up to launch under normal street driving. Doing it that way is only in situations like drag racing when you want to get the most out of your launch. All you have to do is just let off the brake and push on the gas just like you do now when the light changes. The only difference is that you will have to give it a little more gas before the car starts to go. It also doesn't "snap" into gear. The car will just rev a little more and roll out of the hole at a higher rpm than normal. Ask most people with converters. If it's mild, say 2800 or so, after a week you won't even know the difference from stock. Converters actually soften the shifts up also, something that a lot of people don't like, so most people go for a shift kit as well, this is something you should think about. It may not bother you,especially if you don't mind "slushy" shifts, but it sure as heck bothered me, I had to drive for around a week or so before the shift kit went in. Car was much quicker but the shifts just sucked. After the kit everything was just fine. Also a tranny cooler is a must with any converter, because they slip a little to allow the car to stall up they create enormous amounts of heat which is the #1 killer of autos. They are cheap insurance and an easy install, definately get the biggest one you can find and install it before the converter goes in. Just a few points you need to keep in mind. Overall you'll be very pleased with the results and driving ease is pretty much as normal as stock until you get into the high stalls, which you mentioned you don't want to do. Wait til the first time you nail the gas at 25mph or so and your car rockets forward like a freight train. You'll wonder why you ever waited so long to get one.
Old Apr 6, 2004 | 02:00 AM
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so far it sounds pretty good, but im assuming its gonna make it worse on the traction issue?? also, is there a break in period for the converter?

also, how hard would it be for me to install it myself?

Last edited by lt1hatesme; Apr 6, 2004 at 03:13 AM.
Old Apr 6, 2004 | 02:19 AM
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Jay-roll paragraphs are your friend
Old Apr 6, 2004 | 04:02 AM
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Originally posted by krispy
Jay-roll paragraphs are your friend
I know I have that problem. Actually my problem is I'm long winded. On a msg forum I don't really give a rats *** about correct english.

On another note. Installation is very easy and straightforward if you have decent tools. I'd explain that but some people don't like my long paragraphs. Someone else can probably explain it with less words.

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