I posted this in the Lt1 forum, but figured this might be a better place, so...
What are all my options? Do I need a front exit cable or rear exit cable? Reverse valve body - first is all the way back and shift up for 2nd and 3rd or the other way around? Any special mounting hardware? I really like the quarter sticks but I need to narrow my choices down.

Thanks,
Benji

 

I'm kinda curious about what transmission the car has in it now? If it has a 4L60E, why are you replacing it with a transmission that isn't any stronger?
A 60E can be built to go in the 10's, easily.

As far as your question, a reverse manual shift pattern is P-R-N-1-2-3. You pull the shifter back to shift instead of pushing it forward. The B&M ProStick is one of the best shifters made. It has replaceable gate plates that allows it to be used with just about any transmission/shift pattern. Your QuarterStick is a knockoff of the ProStick, but not nearly as good of a shifter. I'll tell you a little story about a past customer of mine who's rev lockout in his QuarterStick failed, and he shifted into Rev. at 130 MPH. The car rolled 3 times and put him in the hospital with a broken neck. This isn't the only incident I've heard of QS's failing. While the ProStick is a great shifter, the Turbo Action "Cheetah" shifter is even nicer...but...it has the price tag that comes with it.

Frank
Cahall Performance Transmissions

 

I have a couple buddies that did the swap, I dont think any of them regret it. I dont trust built 4L60s at all, I have seen way to many of them from reputable places break on gas. I have many friends in the deep 9s with built TH350s though. The B&M is a good peace to use.

 

I assume the whole issue is avoiding breakage. In that case, if you are willing to lose the OD to get reliability I'd suggest a TH400. Yes. it's a little heavier than a 350 but it can be made a lot stronger. If you do much street driivng you may come to really miss your OD.

Rich

 

I'd love to stick with the 4l60e, but I've had the thing out of the car 4 times in the last 2 years. And it sat for 6 months after I spun a bearing during those 2 years. It's just is too expensive to build the 60e to last me and I can have a stout th350 for considerabley less. And, they are a dime a dozen.
Do I need to get a shifter with a rear exit cable or front exit?
Rich, I know of too many people running faster and harder than I will run with th350 and not having any breakage problems. I'll see though, I always seem the be the one that learns lessons the hard way.

Thanks,
Benji

 

If i were you, i would get a th400. Its only a tad heavier then a th350 and alot stronger. To go faster you have to sacrafice somethign all the time, wether it be looseing horsepower or adding weight which are common down sides to beefing up the drivetrain but not really going to make a difference in how fast the car is so dont be to **** about a few extra lbs or hp being lost if its to beef up the drivetrain becaus haveing drivetrain limitations suck..

Im putting a turbo400 in my car this weekend and selling my 4l60e if anyone wants it.

btw, just ordered the Hurst quarter stick shifter. I like pistol grips and how it has the nitrous/line lock or whatever you want it to be buttom on top, most of my friends have different B&m shifters, one has a C5 with the quarter stick and it looks the nicest and has the most comfortable grip to me. Hurst quarter stick rawks!

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...uu-3162006.jpg

 

The thing is, I've seen plenty of people go well into the 9's on th350's that are built exactly the way I'm having mine built. We'll see, th400's aren't too hard to find if I ever need to do the swap. Thanks, for everyone's help.

Benji

 

How with a reverse manual shift pattern can you possibly put it in reverse? You are pulling away from reverse, not shifting towards reverse. The only way I can see that happening is if you were downshifting and it went through into reverse. However, you are usually going much slower when you finally downshift and are almost stopped or are stopped before down shifting into first. Mine doesn't engine brake in first or second only in third.

 

Reverse valve bodies were used years ago when the shifters weren't very good. The forward valve body pattern is much more desireable in the long run, (the modulator is still being used TH350 - TH400) and it is much easier on the gear train that way. If you are going to use the 3 speed automatic, then yes, you can make the TH350 last, but the TH400 is the better way to go if you want longevity with less cost. I would use the 4L60E, it can be built to run in the low 10's & with a decent lifespan. Let me know if I can be of help?

 

Well put. I don't understand the rationale for a TH350 swap. If a 350 would be strong enough, stick with a good 4L60 and keep your OD!

Rich

 

He could go to the 4L80E.... I remember seeing a write up somewhere around here, with pics.... But I know it was a PITA to install...

For strength, as mentioned above, go with the 400 or well built 4L60....

 

Who said it was a reverse manual? The transmission I was referring to was a forward pattern manual. There are quite a few companies that make standard pattern manual valvebodies for the TH350...Including Turbo Action, and Hipster.

Frank

 

The 4L80E is NOT a logical option for a race/high performance car. They weigh a ton, and they'll soak up alot more HP than a properly built 700/4L60E. I've seen a few people do the swap, and slow waaay down. The ONLY reason any transmission shop would advise this swap is if they're not capable of building a 4L60E correctly.

Frank
Cahall Performance Transmissions