after a recent auto to t56 swap i discovered the rear hatch won't open using the switch under the dash nor will the remote open the hatch. the parking brake switch is hooked up correctly evident by the (BRAKE) light coming on in the dash when the e-brake is applied.the interior light will come on when the wireless remote switch for the hatch is depressed but the hatch still does not open. ignition key in the on or off position,parking brake applied or not,still the hatch does not open.i have checked the fuses and the breakers,both checked out good. any and all help would be more than welcome.

 

Just a thought, with the auto in place you cannot pop the hatch with the car in gear. I believe it is called the Part/Netural switch and is on the auto shifter . This needs to be wired up as a clutch switch if you have not already done so. I did mine almost two years ago and don't remember the exace details. I used this install guide:

http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

It is probaly one of the best out there.

 

Yeah, there are (were) 6 wires going to the plug attached to the auto shifter. 2 are for the neutral safety switch (which become your clutch safety switch), 2 are for your reverse lights, and 2 are to allow the hatch to open. I just spliced those to 2 wires together, and the hatch works fine . The only things NOT working on my car are A) clutch switch (I just never took the time to finish that part off ... so my car can start in gear! ) and B) cruise control doesn't work, but I've never taken the time to figure out what I need to hook-up or change to fix that?

 

problem solved, found the orange/black stripe wire and the black/white stripe wire were not removed from the six port connector for the auto shifter.cut both wires and spliced together,works like a charm. thanks again for the help.

 

Good to hear you go it fixed. Have fun bangin gears, I know I do

 

Just an FYI...

If you need to e-test your car... splicing those 2 wires together tells the computer that the car is either in neutral or park and doesn't allow it to use the EGR valve (ie open it).... I wasted money on an E-test and was told I needed a new EGR valve. After checking it out myself and confirming mine worked... a road test with a laptop confirmed that the signal wasn't being sent. I eventually spliced the wire in downstream at the relay on the right side of the dash for my hatch.

I made up a y connector for my cruise and brake switches. You need to wire it such that you have an "or" gate when you press either pedal it completes the circuit.

I bought the pig tail to wire in my clutch... it was like $25 CDN..... This way I have no worries if my g/f jumps in the car